Overview

Introduction

Desert, snowcapped mountains, lush farmland, an immense river gorge, rugged ocean shoreline, towering temperate rain forest: You could spend several weeks taking in all that scenery on a tour of the western U.S., or you could experience it all on a single drive in Washington. If you didn't mind looking at the wonders through your windshield, you could see it in one day.

However, such haste is not recommended. This is a land that commands you to stop at each park and scenic lookout. And even if you could force yourself to drive past the vistas you'd pass, you'd still be missing the state's other joys: lively and literate Seattle, the quiet beauty of the San Juan Islands and the remote majesty of North Cascades National Park, to name just a few. We recommend you stay awhile.

Geography

History

The first people to appreciate Washington's landscapes arrived around 13,000 years ago. Later, the Northwest coastal groups (Lummi, Skagit, Twana, Snugualmi, Makah, Klallam, Chinook) who originally occupied western Washington developed an elaborate nonagricultural society similar in style to that of the coastal peoples of British Columbia and southern Alaska. They lived in permanent settlements of timber log houses and relied almost entirely on the region's abundant marine life for food. Like their neighbors to the north, the Native Americans of Washington excelled at woodworking—carving house facades, masks, totems, crests, boats, utensils and other objects.

The British and the Spanish were the first Europeans to explore what is today the state of Washington. Ideally situated for overseas trading and abundant in saleable natural resources, the area was highly coveted by numerous economic leaders. During the mid-1700s, England, Spain and Russia all laid claim to the area. Later, in a tense and barely workable compromise, Britain and the U.S. shared control of the Oregon Territory, as the area was called, for a number of years. The issue was more or less settled with the Treaty of 1846, which set the U.S.-Canadian border at the 49th parallel (U.S. expansionists had rallied under the slogan "54-40 or Fight," which would have set the border well above modern-day British Columbia's most populated areas).

By 1853, the Oregon Territory was subdivided, and the Washington Territory came into existence. Thirty years later, the completion of the Northern Pacific Railroad increased the already steady influx of new settlers, enough for U.S. President Benjamin Harrison to welcome Washington as a state in November 1889.

In the past two centuries, Washington has seen its share of prosperous times, first with the timber industry boom of the mid-1800s and more recently with the establishment of huge aerospace-manufacturing and high-tech industries. Washington is home to such powerhouse corporations as Boeing, Microsoft, REI, Amazon.com and Starbucks. But even when boom has turned to bust, the state's marine and agricultural riches have helped it to maintain an even keel. In addition to industry, the state has churned out cultural movements such as the grunge bands of the early 1990s and the coffee culture of the late '90s.

Snapshot

Among Washington's main attractions are spectacular mountains, fishing, Native American culture, Seattle, outdoor activities, the San Juan Islands, the Columbia River Gorge, fresh produce, more than 240 wineries, seafood, temperate rain forests, Olympic National Park, North Cascades National Park, Mount Rainier National Park and Mount St. Helens National Volcanic Monument.

It is impossible to walk more than a block or so in the state's large cities, such as Seattle, and not find a coffeehouse.

Those travelers who seek an exciting outdoor-oriented vacation will particularly love Washington. Those who object to frequent rainfall will find the state less to their liking, though the heavy precipitation is characteristic only of the western part of the state.

Potpourri

In 1859, a war nearly erupted between the U.S. and Great Britain after a British pig was shot by a U.S. citizen on San Juan Island. The island was claimed by both nations at the time, and when the pig rooted in the wrong garden, it led to a tense standoff that lasted until the 1870s, when the U.S. took full control of the island.

At Peace Arch State Park (Blaine), a six-story arch straddles the border between the U.S. and Canada. The best time to visit is summer, when thousands of flowers are in bloom on the park grounds.

August in Omak means the annual Omak Stampede and Suicide Race, a competition that began in 1931 and is based on a traditional Native American event called the Downhill Race. In this chaotic event, Native Americans charge their horses down a precipitous hill into the Okanogan River. Serious injuries and dead horses sometimes result.

Tenino is home to Wolf Haven, a sanctuary for wolves. You can join weekend howl-ins, which involve sing-alongs, storytelling and, of course, howling with the wolves.

Near Ellensburg is the Ginkgo Petrified Forest, where you can see what's said to be the world's rarest fossil wood.

Some 300 bald eagles winter at the Skagit River Eagle Preserve in Rockport.

More rhubarb is produced in the Kent-Puyallup valley than anywhere else in the U.S.

In April, fields of tulips unfurl under snowcapped peaks in Skagit Valley, an hour north of Seattle. Dutch and Scandinavians planted the flowers when they settled this picturesque region.

Overview

Introduction

Washington, Arkansas, 10 mi/16 km north of Hope, is the home of the Old Washington Historic State Park.

Washington contains several restored buildings, including the building that was the state Confederate Capitol during the Civil War, the blacksmith shop where the first bowie knife was reportedly made, and a tavern similar to one that Davy Crockett and Jim Bowie stopped in while making their fateful trip to Texas and the Alamo.

Overview

Introduction

Located about 45 mi/75 km southeast of Athens, the town of Washington, Georgia, boasts more than 100 colonial, antebellum and Victorian buildings.

Notable is the restored home of Robert Toombs, a recalcitrant politician who hated the Union for political reasons and hated the Confederacy almost as much because it did not elect him its president.

Overview

Introduction

Washington, D.C., is a beautiful city of broad avenues, impressive government buildings, inspiring monuments, thought-provoking museums and spacious parks. The names you've heard all your life are there: Lincoln Memorial, the U.S. Capitol, the John F. Kennedy Center for the Performing Arts, the Washington National Cathedral, Washington Monument, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial. No traveler could mistake this city for any other.

And all the everyday details remind you that the local industry is government: cars with diplomatic plates, official guards at entrances, vast regiments of briefcases swinging along the avenues.

Along with the trappings of power and ambition, Washington, D.C., is a cosmopolitan city filled with a population of transient but well-educated residents, a never-ending array of interesting (and mostly free) events, and world-class eats. It's a beautiful city, too, full of stately white buildings, museums and galleries best recognized as national institutions. The many children who visit, either with school groups or with their families, receive a fascinating introduction to the nation's past and an overview of its governing structure. Washington, D.C., shows itself well as the nation's capital.

Must See or Do

Sights—The exterior of the White House; tours of the U.S. Capitol; the Martin Luther King Jr. National Memorial; the Washington Monument; the Lincoln, Jefferson, Franklin Delano Roosevelt and Vietnam Veterans memorials.

Museums—Any of the branches of the Smithsonian Institution, especially the National Museum of African American History; the Phillips Collection; the National Geographic Society; the U.S. Holocaust Memorial Museum.

Memorable Meals—A meal to remember at Rose's Luxury; ramen and fried chicken at Momofuku CCDC; farm-fresh fare at Founding Farmers; ethnic restaurants from around the world, including Indian cuisine at Rasika or Ethiopian dishes at Zenebech; the oyster bar at Pearl Dive Oyster Palace; the romantic setting at 1789.

Late Night—The illuminated Lincoln and Jefferson memorials (until midnight); first-class musicians at the Anthem; hip bars and clubs in the U Street District; dinner and jazz at Blues Alley in Georgetown; a famous late-night chili dog at Ben's Chili Bowl.

Walks—Strolling down the museum-lined National Mall and by the Tidal Basin; along the cobblestoned streets of Georgetown; on one of several trails in Rock Creek Park; through the gardens at the Washington National Cathedral; along the shops and restaurants in Dupont Circle; past the many buildings representing nations on Embassy Row.

Especially for Kids—The National Air and Space Museum; the National Museum of Natural History; a ride with DC Ducks; renting a canoe from Thompson Boat Center and paddle the Potomac; the National Zoological Park; a baseball game at Nationals Park; attending one of the growing number of Washington festivals.

Geography

When Frenchman Pierre L'Enfant was contracted to design the city, he added diagonal avenues (named for the individual states) to the plan—in addition to a logical grid pattern of streets—forming squares and circles when they met with the grid streets. One theory is that L'Enfant designed the city this way so that encroaching armies would be confused by the pattern and have trouble attacking the capital city. Unfortunately, that idea didn't work, as the British had no problem burning the White House in 1814. An unintended result of the design is that it causes visitors and locals alike to get lost. Nevertheless, if one is patient and doesn't mind backtracking a bit, the city is not too difficult to traverse. L'Enfant's plan also called for plenty of open spaces and parks, which has greatly added to the beauty of the city.

Washington, D.C., is divided into four geographic districts—northwest, southwest, northeast and southeast—whose center is the Capitol. Addresses in Washington include a quadrant indicator at the end. For instance, because the White House is in the northwest quadrant, its address is 1600 Pennsylvania Ave. N.W. Check that indicator before heading out so you don't end up in the wrong part of town.

The most visible landmark in town is the 555-ft/169-m obelisk known as the Washington Monument, a good way to orient yourself in the city. It's in the middle of the grassy expanse called the National Mall. Stand with your back to the monument, facing the White House: Off to your right are many museums and the major federal buildings; on the hill in the distance are the Capitol and—blocked from view behind it—the Supreme Court and the Library of Congress. To your left are the Reflecting Pool, the World War II Memorial, the Vietnam Veterans Memorial, the Lincoln Memorial and—in the distance across the Potomac—the hills of Arlington National Cemetery.

The city's major thoroughfares are Constitution and Independence avenues (flanking the Mall), Pennsylvania Avenue (connecting the White House to Capitol Hill) and Massachusetts Avenue (connecting Capitol Hill, Dupont Circle and Embassy Row). Also of interest to visitors are Connecticut Avenue and Wisconsin Avenue, abounding with shops, hotels and restaurants. A great boon to residents and visitors is another "thoroughfare," Washington's Metro rail system. Keeping a map of the Metro system on hand is a good idea.

History

A town built on the swamps of the Potomac River, Washington has evolved not only into a center for international politics, but also into a charming, world-class city dedicated to history and culture. Almost all of its wide avenues and gleaming white buildings have a story to tell.

A major factor in the evolution of Washington, D.C., was air-conditioning. Without that modern convenience, government would not have become a full-time, year-round occupation—at least not in this city, which was built on swampland in the center of the original American colonies. George Washington chose the site and talked some landowners into donating it to the new government. He and the other founders thought the capital should exist as a separate entity, distinct from the interests of any individual U.S. state. So it was not made—and has not become—a state.

Not until after the Civil War did Washington come into its own, capable of meeting its promise as a symbol of the country's best hopes. Politicians became more eager to go to Washington, and so did intellectuals, artists and African Americans seeking a tolerant atmosphere (though blacks often found themselves treated as harshly in the District of Columbia as they were in segregationist states).

The fact that Washington, D.C., has never been granted statehood is a bone of contention, especially for the more than 600,000 people who live within its borders. Washingtonians can vote for president and vice president of the U.S., but they have no representation in the Senate and only one nonvoting member in the House of Representatives. Congress must approve the city's budget and has veto power over any laws it passes. Because Washingtonians pay federal taxes, the phrase Taxation Without Representation is sometimes seen on license plates in protest. In the 20th century, Washington residents were given something called "home rule," meaning that they may elect a mayor and city council, but their government is still subject to oversight by the U.S. Congress.

While other cities throughout the U.S. struggled with recession and high unemployment during the financial crisis of 2008, Washington, D.C., was barely impacted. The district's continued economic growth, largely fueled by federal spending, has become a hotly contested topic.

In 2012, Washington officially surpassed Silicon Valley to become the wealthiest metropolitan area in the U.S., and nine of the country's richest counties are located in surrounding areas. This economic growth has brought about many social changes in the city, including neighborhood gentrification and a dramatic increase in young professionals and entrepreneurs who service the public sector. With this growth, however, has also come an increase in the region's income disparity—a widening gap between D.C.'s highest and lowest earners.

Most visitors will not see signs of the city's internal tensions: The streets may be potholed, but the taxis are relatively inexpensive, the Metro rail often runs on time, and many of the sights and monuments are administered by the federal government and operate efficiently.

Potpourri

Washington, D.C., contains more than 175 embassies housing ambassadors from all over the world. Most are located along a stretch of Massachusetts Avenue Northwest, between Scott Circle and Wisconsin Avenue, an area that has come to be known as Embassy Row.

Every U.S. president since Madison has sat at least once in Pew 54 at St. John's Church on Lafayette Square.

It was George Washington who commissioned Pierre Charles L'Enfant to draw plans for the city. Less well-known is the contribution of Benjamin Banneker, an African-American surveyor who helped make L'Enfant's grandiose designs practicable.

The Willard InterContinental has hosted a number of presidents and famous guests including Martin Luther King Jr., who wrote his "I Have a Dream" speech in his hotel room there.

Nationals Park was designed using many ecofriendly practices and boasts recognition as the nation's first major professional stadium to be LEED Silver Certified by the U.S. Green Building Council.

There is one lawyer for every 19 residents of Washington, D.C,. and 74 political lobbyists for every one U.S. senator.

Much of the National Mall was once underwater. When the Potomac River rose to within just three blocks of the White House in 1881, scientists and engineers began working on Tidal Basin, a project that drained the area where the mall now sits.

The Smithsonian is named for a British scientist who never visited the U.S. In 1829, James Smithson left his entire estate "to The United States of America, to found at Washington, an establishment for the increase and diffusion of knowledge among men."

Overview

Introduction

Nature lovers will want to spend at least a day exploring Washington Slagbaai National Park, a 13,500-acre/5,500-hectare reserve that covers most of the northwestern end of the island. The park was formed from two old plantations named Washington and Slagbaai (the word means "slaughter bay" and refers to the cattle, goats and sheep that were butchered there before being shipped to Curacao).

A museum of Bonaire history is at the park entrance, where you can also pick up a map showing hiking and driving routes through the park, along with beaches and dive sites. There's a short drive (15 mi/25 km) that takes about 90 minutes with few stops, and a long drive (22 mi/35 km) that takes two and a half hours. Among the park's highlights are Boka Slagbaai, a small cove with plantation buildings from the 1800s; Salina Matijs, a salt flat that attracts flamingos during the rainy season (October-December); Boka Bartol, a lovely bay with good snorkeling; and Wayaka, a remote reef where divers might see turtles, octopi and seahorses.

On land, you'll find goats, wild donkeys, iguanas, several other species of lizards and a hundred or more different species of birds. In addition to the flamingos, look for the brilliantly colored parakeets and the green and yellow lora parrots that nest in the cacti.

Mount Brandaris, Bonaire's highest peak at 784 ft/239 m, is within the park. Those with strong legs and good hiking boots will find this a scenic climb. Guided trips can be arranged.

The park is open 8 am-5 pm, and you're advised to go early, before the day heats up. No motorcycles are allowed. Cars and divers should arrive no later than 2:30 pm. Entry fee is US$10 per adult (including car). No credit cards accepted. Phone 788-9015 or 785-0017. http://www.stinapabonaire.org.