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Tortola is the largest and busiest of the British Virgin Islands, though it's still far from frantic. It is a beautiful island, with lots to offer visitors—gorgeous beaches, hiking trails, stunning vistas, a laid-back atmosphere and easy access to great diving and snorkeling spots.
The island is covered with mango, palm and banana trees, colorful foliage and jagged mountains. Pastel-colored storefronts dot the landscape, and although houses appear on the hillsides, development has not taken over. Tortola's residents are welcoming but not aggressively so: They go about their business aware of, but not consumed by, tourism.
Tortola is a relaxing place to spend some time and makes a good base from which to explore the British Virgin Islands. If you're looking for complete seclusion on a deserted island, look elsewhere. Tortola is better suited for those who like a little more to see and do.
The British Virgin Islands sustained severe damage during Hurricanes Irma and Maria in September 2017, and Tortola was one of the hardest hit islands. Recovery is ongoing, but the island's infrastructure has been restored and many sailing charter companies, hotels and other businesses have reopened.
Sights—Callwood Distillery for a trip back in time to the colonial era; Fort Burt for breathtaking views of the harbor and offshore islands; Shark Bay for a chance to see the beach, bay and a nature reserve rolled into one.
Museums—The North Shore Shell Museum for the largest shell collection in the Caribbean; Virgin Islands Maritime Museum for all things to do with the sea and its importance to the islands; Virgin Islands Folk Museum for a look at the region's rich folk history.
Memorable Meals—Local specialties at Roti Queen; Pusser's Landing for seafood and great views; The Sugar Mill for creative gourmet cuisine.
Late Night—Bomba's Surfside Shack for Friday night revelry on the beach; Sebastian's for live fungi music on Friday and Saturday; Quito's Gazebo for live music and the island's biggest weekend reggae party.
Walks—J.R. O'Neal Botanic Gardens for the best in Caribbean flora; Main Street—where everything happens in Tortola; Mount Healthy National Park for its hilltop windmill and vistas; Sage Mountain National Park to scale the highest point on Tortola.
Tribes of Arawak Indians are believed to have occupied the island from around 100 BC. The uncovering of an Amerindian village in Belmont includes the remnants of a ball field, pottery and carved shells and is a testimony to the existence of the Amerindian settlers who are said to have arrived on the island from South America around 600 BC. But some of the most infamous residents to call the island home were pirates during the 16th and 17th centuries, including the menacing but colorful Blackbeard, who is said to have made his home in Soper's Hole.
Sugar and cotton plantations ruled the economy of Tortola during the 1700s and 1800s. The opening of the Beef Island airport in 1968 and the first charter-yacht operator the following year marked the beginning of the island's burgeoning tourism industry.
The 1748 Restaurant is the oldest still-functioning eatery anywhere in the Caribbean, as well as the oldest business establishment on the island.
The Callwood Rum Distillery may be the world's oldest sugar-cane distillery. The original boiler still operates and produces rum, which is then stored in original storage casks.
In addition to serving as Road Town's tiny shopping district, Main Street contains several historical landmarks, including the old Post Office, St. George's Anglican Church, Britannic Hall and the Virgin Islands Folk Museum.
Built in 1840, St. Phillips Church in Road Town is said to be the first church built for freed African slaves in the Western Hemisphere.
Pusser's General Store in Road Town still sells the original Pusser's Blue Label Rum, supposedly made with the same recipe used by the British Royal Navy for centuries.
Cruise ships visiting Tortola stop in Road Town and tie up at Government Dock (locally referred to as Cruise Pier), which is just a two-minute walk from shops and restaurants. The pier is 755 ft/230 m long and provides space for two large passenger ships. Nearby tender piers add another 436 ft/133 m of deck for arriving passengers when more than two cruise ships are in port.
The Road Town Jetty is also within the harbor and is used mainly as a ferry dock, which is convenient for visitors who wish to visit other islands in the British Virgins. Another ferry dock is located at Soper's Hole in the West End, which is a short taxi ride away. This larger facility handles most of the passengers and cargo traveling between the B.V.I. and the U.S. Virgin Islands.
Note that the myriad shops that dotted Cruise Pier are now located in the Crafts Alive Market on Waterfront Drive.
Several locations in Road Town offer internet access, and visitors can choose from a variety of restaurants in the surrounding area. The B.V.I. Tourist Board maintains a presence at the cruise ship pier. Phone 284-494-3134. http://www.bvitourism.com.
Shore excursion offerings may include a safari bus tour of the island; a narrated bus tour that takes in the historical sites of Road Town plus the J.R. O'Neal Botanical Gardens; a Mount Sage hike; snorkeling at Norman Island; a ferry trip to Virgin Gorda with a safari bus tour of that island; a sea cliff trek along Shark Bay; and a scuba tour of the wreck of the RMS Rhone.
Check with your travel agent for additional information.
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