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Introduction

Tikal, Guatemala, is a UNESCO World Heritage site and undoubtedly one of the most impressive archaeological sites in the Americas. Although totally different in architecture and setting from the Inca ruins of Machu Picchu in Peru, it is arguably just as spectacular. Situated in the jungle of northern Guatemala, the ruins are part of the much larger Tikal National Park. The Maya structures occupy a large area (approximately 10 sq mi/25 sq km). So far, more than 3,120 palaces, temples, shrines, ceremonial platforms, ball courts, plazas and residences have been mapped, and many more remain uncharted.

A tour of Tikal starts at the visitors center, where there are also two small museums and some quaint places to eat. A 1-mi/1.6-km walk will take you to the Great Plaza, one of the most meticulously excavated areas. There, Temple I, known as the Temple of the Giant Jaguar, rises to 144 ft/44 m. The stairs to the top are no longer open after a number of travelers fell to their deaths while making the climb. The tallest standing temple in Tikal and the second highest in the Maya world (after El Tigre at El Mirador) is Temple IV: 212 ft/64 m high.

Because this is a jungle area, it is usually hot and humid, although not unbearable. Wear a hat and lightweight clothing and take along insect repellent. Wear shoes with nonslip soles for climbing the stone steps and watch your footing on the uneven paths. Be aware of all park warnings, and resist the urge to wander off to more desolate areas of the park. Despite increased security, armed robberies and rapes do occur, albeit with less frequency than in the past.

If possible, plan to spend at least one night either in the park or in the vicinity. Seeing the ruins on a day trip doesn't do them justice. Lodges in the park are small, basic and frequently filled with archaeologists, so book early. For more luxurious accommodations, there's the Westin Camino Real hotel on Lake Peten Itza, about 35 mi/55 km from the park. Flores also makes an excellent base for exploring Tikal. This pleasant town on an island (reached by a causeway) in Lake Peten Itza has comfortable hotels and good restaurants. Launches can be rented in Flores for tours around the lake. One of the most popular trips is to the unexcavated pre-Hispanic ruins of Tayasal, where there is a lookout with superb views of Flores and Lake Peten Itza.

A paved highway from Guatemala City to Flores means the driving time for the 305-mi/488-km trip is less than nine hours during the dry season. However, driving through the department of Peten, as well as other parts of Guatemala, can be very dangerous, especially at night. We recommend flying into the airport at Flores and then taking a minibus or taxi to Tikal, 40 mi/65 km away. Another option is to take a deluxe bus from Guatemala City, or to book a tour in Guatemala City or Antigua.


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