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Overview

Introduction

Sicily is a mountainous island dotted with lemon, orange, almond and pistachio orchards—an extension of the Apennine Mountains separated from the mainland by the Strait of Messina. La Sicilia is the largest island in the central Mediterranean, with some 9,927 sq mi/25,711 sq km of variegated terrain.

Many powers have occupied and governed this strategically important area 310 mi/500 km south of Rome: Greeks, Romans, Vandals, Goths, Byzantines, Muslims (Arabs), Phoenicians, Normans, Spanish, the royal houses of Hohenstaufen, Savoy, Habsburg, the Aragon and, for brief periods, the U.K. and the U.S. Historic sites related to these powers are part of the island's attraction.

For touring, the island can be roughly divided into the north-shore and south-shore areas. The north shore has reefs, olive groves, secluded coves and countless seaside resorts, including Cefalu, a gorgeous Arab-Norman city with good beaches. Also on the north coast is Palermo, the ancient (and current) capital, and the island's largest city. About 50 mi/80 km west of Palermo lies the ancient village of Erice, atop a mountain: It still has remains of a temple dedicated to Venus.

The southern coast has an even milder climate, so there's swimming most of the year (although it can get cold there November-March). Among the areas not to be missed are Agrigento, Acireale and Taormina, a distinctive, beautiful town perched on cliffs overlooking the Mediterranean.

Mount Etna is a 10,902-ft-/3,323-m-high active volcano on the east coast—its crater is difficult to reach, so join a guided tour and dress warmly. There are great ocean views from the mountain, and (depending on volcanic activity) it's possible to ski there in winter. You can also drive or take a train along the 120-mi/200-km route around its base to see a wide variety of scenery.

It's also possible to visit various island groups that surround Sicily. The Aeolian Islands lie off the northeast coast, the Egadi Islands are to the west and the Pantelleria Islands and Pelagian Islands are to the south.

Must See or Do

Sights—The well-preserved archaeological sites all around Sicily, including Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples, the Doric temple and theater at Selinunte Archaeological Site; the well-preserved mosaics of the Villa Romana del Casale at Piazza Armerina; the Teatro Greco in Taormina; the Teatro Greco & Parco Archeologico della Neapolis in Siracusa; the Monreale Duomo just outside Palermo; the medieval hilltop town of Erice; a cruise around the Aeolian or Aegadian archipelagos; a cable car up to Europe's most active volcano, Mount Etna.

Museums—Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonino Salinas in Palermo; Siracusa's Museo Archeologico Paolo Orsi; Palermo's Galleria di Arte Moderno; Museo Regionale di Palazzo Abatellis in Palermo, which contains some of Sicily's most famous works of art.

Memorable Meals—A steaming plate of seafood couscous at Osteria La Bettolaccia in Trapani; melt-in-your-mouth cannoli at Pasticceria Cappello in Palermo; street food in the rustic Vucciria or Ballero markets in Palermo; irresistible stuffed arancini rice balls at Panificio da Cristina in Taormina; a surprising meal at a little family-run restaurant or trattoria no one knows about yet.

Late Night—Jazz on the terrace at chic Metropole in Taormina; a fine cocktail in Morgana Bar in Taormina; a glass of Sicilian wine in a small enoteca or osteria.

Walks—Lush trails of Mediterranean flora at the Riserva Naturale Orientate dello Zingaro; exploring any of the national parks at Nebrodi or Alcantara; hiking up the otherworldly terrain of Mount Etna volcano; strolling leisurely along Corso Umberto in Taormina or around the historic centers of any other large capitals of the island, including Trapani or Syracuse.

Especially for Kids—The rides at Etnaland amusement park; family beaches at Cefalu; Bioparco di Sicilia at Carini near Palermo, with its zoo and dinosaur exhibition; many comfortable shopping malls in most major cities together with local parks and playgrounds; any of the array of food festivals (sagre) and religious festivals (feste) held year-round, which make for perfect family outings.

Geography

Sicily is the largest region of Italy. The coastline of the triangular-shaped island is more than 620 mi/1,000 km long, and it takes about three and a half hours to cross the island from east to west by car and about two and a half hours to cross it from north to south.

The Greeks nicknamed the island Trinacria from the Greek words for "three" (tries) and "promontory" (akara). The island is shaped like an isosceles triangle lying down on one side. At its western point is the seaside city of Trapani, indicating toward Portugal and France. On the eastern tip lies Messina, separated from the mainland Italian region of Calabria by the strait. The triangle is completed in the south by Syracuse.

The island is divided into nine administrative provinces, which take their names from their capitals. Sicily may seem small, but each province is made up of densely populated towns, each with its own particular history, dialect and landscape.

Sicily's highest point is Mount Etna at 10,902 ft/3,323 m, an active volcano on the eastern side of the island, with the Nebrodi and Madonie mountain ranges located along the northern coast. The area around Etna consists of very fertile, volcanic soil. Most of the rest of Sicily's topography is hilly and rugged, with the land being dominated by agriculture wherever possible.

There are many islands off the coast of Sicily, from the volcanic Aeolians to the rustic Aegadian, isolated Pelagian archipelagos, Pantelleria, Lampedusa and Uscita.

History

Sicilian history is a cavalcade of invasions, one after another, and each of these invasions has added another dimension, a rich layer, to Sicily's extraordinary fusion of cultures and customs.

The first inhabitants of Sicily were Stone Age settlers from the Siculi tribe in 12,000 BC, originally from the region of Calabria on the mainland, who in turn gave the island its name. They were joined by the Elymi, descendants of the Trojans, and then followed by the Phoenicians who arrived from Carthage and settled on the west coast.

The Phoenicians founded Palermo and established important trade routes on the coast from Palermo to Trapani. The Greeks arrived by 735 BC as the island's prosperity increased, and they established their first colony at Naxos, today Giardini Naxos, just south of Taormina. The Greek colonies grew more prosperous and powerful in the east, causing tension with the Phoenicians (in alliance with the Carthaginians) who were settled in the western part of the island. In 480 BC, the Carthaginians were defeated by the Greeks at Himera, and what followed was a golden age for Sicily with the building of the largest of the Greek temples at Agrigento.

The Romans invaded and sacked Siracusa 264-211 BC; the island remained under Roman rule until AD 468. Following the Romans came the Vandals, Byzantines, Arabs, Normans and Spanish.
The Spanish remained in control from the 12th through 17th centuries. During this time, the Mafia first emerged as a result of the feudal system forcing peasants off their land, breeding frustration and oppression. The island became free of Spanish rule only in 1860 after the arrival of Garibaldi, who began the process of the Unification of Italy. (Almost every major city and town in Italy has a Garibaldi square or street in his honor.)

During World War II, when the Allies invaded Sicily, they were greatly aided by the Mafia, who were eager to rid Sicily of the Fascists who had attempted to eliminate them under earlier rule by Mussolini. It was not until 1946 that Sicily became an autonomous region of Italy. At that time, the Mafia formed ties with the Christian Democrats and the Roman Catholic Church in their common goals of suppressing Communism.

Although there are many milestones in the anti-Mafia crackdown, one in particular is notable. In 2006 the top Mafia boss, Bernardo Provenzano, was arrested after 40 years on the run. Sicilian business groups continue to work with the police and local government to prosecute members of Sicilian Mafia groups.

In recent years, the Addio Pizzo movement in Palermo has been working against the payment of extortion money to the Mafia, and tourists visiting the island are encouraged to support the war against organized crime by frequenting businesses that no longer pay protection money to local criminal organizations.

Snapshot

Sicily is a wonderful spot for a vacation with a unique mix of history, culture, nature, fine cuisine and a variety of activities to experience.

There visitors find watersports, beaches of rock and sand (including black sand), rugged mountains and volcanoes, beautiful vistas, good food, prized ceramics and other quality shopping, and friendly people.

Potpourri

The Sicilian word for Mafia is actually an Arabic word for "refugee," first used when the Sicilians hid in the mountains from the invading Arab and Norman armies.

Syracuse is the birthplace of Archimedes, the famous Greek mathematician.

Famous visitor and philosopher Wolfgang Goethe said about Sicily in 1787, "Italy without Sicily doesn't leave any trace in the soul: The key to everything is here."

Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and is home to the tallest active volcano in Europe, Mt. Etna.

Sicily is technically part of the Italian Republic, but it maintains a semiautonomous status with its own parliament and president. Its capital is Palermo. Ask a Sicilian if they love their country and they'll usually answer, "I love Sicily." (Sicily first, Italy second.)

Although Sicilian is referred to as an Italian dialect, it is so different that it can almost be considered a language in its own right. About 70% of Sicily's inhabitants speak Sicilian. Unfortunately, Sicilian is considered a dying language, as it is only spoken, no longer written.

Sicily boasts six UNESCO World Heritage sites.


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