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Renowned for its beautiful white beaches and clear blue waters, the country's main island offers a perfect setting for those wishing to sunbathe, snorkel, scuba dive or go deep-sea fishing. If you want to swim, head to Praia Grande, Praia das Sete Ondas (best waves on Sao Tome), Praia das Pombas, Praia Piscina or Praia Jale. Divers and snorkelers will prefer the reefs off Lagua Azul, Ilheu das Cabras, Praia Pequena and Praia das Conchas.
But sand and surf aren't the whole story: At the southern end of the island, Pico de Ana Chaves—an extinct volcano that rises 5,300 ft/1,630 m—offers a challenging hike, a cool atmosphere and a beautiful view of the island. The one main road on the eastern side of the island takes about four to five hours to drive and passes many small, colorful villages.
The main city, also called Sao Tome, is attractive, quiet, clean and has many old (and decaying) Portuguese colonial buildings. Tour the 16th-century cathedral and 400-year-old Ft. Sao Sebastiao, which now houses the National Museum (lots of displays about the colonial era). Outside town, excursions can be made to the Boca de Inferno (the Mouth of Hell), a natural waterspout flowing from volcanic rock. Also worth visiting is the expansive Agustinho Neto manor house, an old colonial plantation outside of town. For a good day trip, head to Pousada Boa Vista for a bird's-eye view of the coastline and the 80-ft/25-m Sao Nicolau waterfall.
South of the capital is the village of Sao Joao dos Angolare, which has traditional bamboo homes with thatched roofs. Near Angolares is Roca Sao Joao, an estate run by local artist Joao Carlos. It contains a coffee plantation, a comfortable guest house and a restaurant serving authentic local cuisine. Porto Alegre, another plantation farther south, also has a guest house. Set on a bluff overlooking the ocean, Porto Alegre is one of the most beautiful spots on the island. (While food must be arranged in advance, aguadente—the local rum—is always available.) Just offshore from Porto Alegre is Ilheu das Rolas, a tiny island with traditional thatched huts, a blow hole and a monument marking the location of the equator. The island of Sao Tome merits three nights.
Unlike Africa's better known island paradises off the east coast of the continent, the island nation of Sao Tome and Principe lies in the Atlantic—in relative obscurity. Although they were once the most bountiful sugar-producing area in the world, these beautiful little islands, separated from Africa by the Gulf of Guinea, are now among the world's least-known destinations. And that's the way some people would like things to stay.
Sao Tome and Principe (pronounced sow too-MAY and PRIN-sih-pay) is a haven for travelers looking for an offbeat tropical destination, where you can dive or snorkel in unspoiled waters, meet friendly people, camp on isolated beaches and explore pristine rain forests. There are even some beautiful old crumbling plantation houses. However, if those kind of laid-back attractions appeal to you, you'd better hurry: The islands have been eyed by international hotel chains that have visions of high rises. Fortunately, none have made a move yet.
Once you've made your plans, though, you won't want to be in a hurry at all. First, you'll need plenty of time to get to the islands—it will take you a few hops by air to reach them. And once you're there, you won't want to rush—you'll want plenty of time to settle into the slow equatorial rhythms. Time, in fact, hasn't meant much to Sao Tome and Principe: These islands look much the way they did more than a century ago.
The Portuguese arrived in Sao Tome and Principe in 1471 and found the islands sparsely inhabited and well suited for the cultivation of sugar. Slaves were brought over from mainland Africa to provide the labor, and the islands also served as penal colonies (prisoners and exiles were sent there from Portugal). Eventually, the islands turned into an offshore center for the slave trade from Africa to the New World. During the first century of colonization, many Portuguese plantation owners fled because of slave revolts and pirate attacks. Succeeding years saw ever more repressive measures until 1875, when slavery was abolished. After that, coffee and cocoa became the economic mainstays.
Portuguese dominance was never really challenged until the 1950s, and even then, the local move to autonomy took a while. Sao Tome and Principe, along with Portugal's other African colonies, gained its independence in 1975. At that time, most of the Portuguese officials and business owners abandoned the country, and the islands made a political shift toward communism. Hundreds of Cuban and Angolan soldiers and laborers were brought in to keep the infrastructure running. In the mid 1980s, Manual Pinto da Costa began the country's swing back to democracy, which culminated in 1991 with Sao Tome's first open elections. Despite brief military coups in 1995 and 2003, the country has since remained stable.
Cocoa, coconuts, coffee and palm oil dominate business activity today. The government, however, has begun to encourage crop diversification and the promotion of tourism on a limited, high-end basis.
Deep-sea fishing, scuba diving, snorkeling, lush tropical scenery, monkeys, beaches, mountains, bird watching and good food are among the foremost attractions of Sao Tome and Principe.
The country will appeal to travelers who are in the general area and want to spend some time on these beautiful, nontouristy islands. Don't go expecting a wide variety of nightlife and shopping.
This tiny country is home to more than a hundred different species of birds, more than a quarter of which are found nowhere else in the world.
Sao Tome is considered one of the safest capital cities in Africa.
Cocoa and coffee exports make up 70% of the national economy.
Sao Tome and Principe is the second-smallest country in Africa after the Seychelles.
Deep-sea fishing is a must for big-game anglers. The eastern Atlantic offers blue and black marlin, yellow-fin tuna, sailfish and giant barracuda.
The southwestern side of each island is the greenest, receiving nearly five times more rain than on the other side of the mountains.
Most of the lush tropical vegetation is found above an altitude of 3,950 ft/1,200 m. Below that, most land is used for farming and any wild vegetation that grows is referred to as capoeira.
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