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Overview

Introduction

Founded by the Spanish in the 16th century, the small Pacific-coast town of San Blas, Mexico, lies between Mazatlan and Puerto Vallarta about 140 mi/225 km northwest of Guadalajara.

Located on the northern tip of Nayarit, San Blas is a low-key port town and will interest travelers who don't care for an Acapulco-type tourist resort but still want to spend time in the water.

San Blas features various statues and monuments, as well as ruins, commemorating its past. A must-see is La Tovara National Park, where you can take a motorized, but quiet, boat ride through the mangrove-filled canals. On these excursions, you'll likely see crocodiles, turtles and rare birds. The jungle-boat trips are especially good in the morning, when the animals are most visible.

The winter months are when bird-watchers will want to visit San Blas: Thousands of migratory birds can be seen then (more than 400 species have been observed in one season). It's very laid-back and really enchanting.

San Blas is also home to many beaches and a bustling seaport. Nearby Las Islitas on Matanchen Bay has the best beaches in the area and has long, gentle waves that make it one of Mexico's best-kept surfing secrets.

However, San Blas is not for those who demand comfort. And don't confuse it with the San Blas farther north, in Sinaloa. This San Blas is in the state of Nayarit and is surrounded by mangrove swamp, so take plenty of insect repellent to ward off the constant swarms of mosquitoes and jejenes, the local version of no-see-ums (biting gnats).

Also visit Fort San Basilio overlooking the town for great views of the surrounding countryside. A government plan to develop 13 mi/21 km of coast that ends in San Blas may change things as upscale resorts and attractions come onboard.

Overview

Introduction

Palm-lined beaches, coral-ringed islands and jungle-cloaked mountains make the San Blas Islands, Panama, 65 mi/105 km northeast of Panama City, look a lot like paradise, but the main reason for going there is to spend time with the Kuna people, who have managed to preserve their traditional culture.

The Kuna live crowded together in thatched huts on about 40 of the 350 islands of the archipelago and rule their own autonomous province. The Kuna women still wear long skirts, red and yellow headdresses and appliqued mola blouses in brilliant primary colors. Their faces sometimes have a black line painted from forehead to nose tip, and a gold ring is often worn through the tip of the nose. Colorful beaded bracelets cover their arms. The Kuna are said to be the second smallest people in the world, after the pygmies of Africa.

The Kuna travel in dugout canoes or simple sailcraft, and many of those living on the islands journey to the mainland to work harvesting coconuts, their major income source apart from tourism. Though they maintain their traditions, the Kuna are also astute businesspeople who have integrated tourism into their lives, on their own terms. They are one of the indigenous groups that the government of Panama especially likes to point to as examples of a "successful collaboration without integration."

First of all, expect to pay a small fee upon arrival at most islands. Shopping is a big part of a visit to the Kuna, with the colorful molas being the most popular item for sale. You'll see the molas hanging from clotheslines, which seem to stretch from one end of a village to the other. Used for wall hangings, pillow covers and decoration for clothing, molas cost US$10-$40. Business also comes to bear on any photos that you may want to take of the Kuna: On most islands, you'll be expected to pay US$1 for each person in the photo for each photo taken—no exceptions, and don't try to haggle.

The region's dozen or so hotels are owned and operated by the Kuna. Most are extremely basic affairs, and several have outhouse toilets over the water. If you're squeamish or fussy about lodging, consider a day excursion arranged through a tour operator in Panama City.

Small planes fly to 10 landing strips in the San Blas area. Tour operators in Panama City can arrange overnight tours. http://sanblas-islands.com.


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