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Overview

Introduction

Also known as Lago de Cocibolca, or "the sweet sea," Lake Nicaragua is the largest lake in Central America—about 100 mi/60 km long and 50 mi/30 km wide—and the 21th largest freshwater lake in the world. The city of Granada is located on the lake's northwestern shore, and on the southeast it can be accessed via San Carlos.

During the late 1800s, there were plans to dig a trans-Nicaragua shipping channel connecting the Caribbean and the Pacific, with Lake Nicaragua as the centerpiece. Lobbying for construction almost succeeded until a volcanic eruption in Nicaragua. Proponents of a canal in Panama used the eruption to push their site.

Though it's a freshwater lake, Lake Nicaragua is home to large numbers of species usually found in salt water—sharks, tarpon, swordfish and sawfish. Scientific investigations have shown that the fish actually migrate between the lake and the Caribbean via the Rio San Juan. Unfortunately, their numbers have been greatly reduced—the sharks, in particular, have been hunted to near extinction. Winged creatures have fared better. A large bird population nests on the 365 islands in the lake.

The primary attractions at Lake Nicaragua are Granada (boat tours that can be taken from there), Ometepe Island and, to a lesser extent, the remote and difficult to access Solentiname Archipelago at the far southern end of the lake.

Overview

Introduction

Despite Nicaragua's vibrant, tumultuous history, the violence associated with the Sandinista revolution and Contra War ended in the early 1990s, leaving a tranquil, peace-loving people to finally get on with their lives.

Today's Nicaragua is politically stable and attracts an increasing number of foreign visitors and investors each year. Nicaragua's low prices, proximity to international air hubs in Miami and Houston, and stunning scenery and culture have served to vault the country into the tourism arena.

Rising global interest in ecotourism is also drawing travelers to Nicaragua's natural and cultural attractions. Indeed, the country is known as "The Land of Lakes and Volcanoes," and includes Lake Nicaragua, the 20th-largest freshwater lake in the world, and its jewel, La Isla de Ometepe, a volcanic island that was nominated for the "new seven wonders of the world." There are also a number of protected areas and nature preserves, including Volcan Masaya National Park, one of the most accessible active volcanoes in the region.

Though Nicaragua is one of the safest countries in Central America, tourism can still be a bit rough around the edges because of limited (but improving) travel resources—hotels, transportation and quality roads—and occasional power and water outages. Nicaragua is not "the next Costa Rica," as some travel agents would have you believe, but is rather a unique, sometimes challenging, always immensely rewarding destination.

Paradoxically, the lag in tourism development is part of what makes this country so attractive. Besides being inexpensive, Nicaragua is unspoiled by the trappings of megaresort development.

Knowing at least a little conversational Spanish will help a great deal. Nicaragua is wonderful for independent travelers, and there are plenty of tour operators as well to help you get around.

Geography

Bordered by Honduras to the north and Costa Rica to the south, Nicaragua has both Caribbean and Pacific coastlines. Though relatively small—it's about the same size as New York state—the country has an array of scenic terrains.

The rugged Pacific coast is backed by a chain of volcanoes that form the Cordillera Los Maribios. Several volcanoes stud two huge lakes—Lago de Managua and the larger Lago de Nicaragua—that occupy much of a broad plain between the coastal ranges and the Cordillera Chontalena, a range of mountains that broadens northward and merges with the Cordillera Isabelia.

The eastern half of the country has a low population and is mostly undeveloped, because it is comprised of thickly forested llanuras (flatlands) that smother the Caribbean zone. Much of the Caribbean shore is lined with swampy lagoons.

History

Humans were present in what is now Nicaragua as early as 8,000 BC, and it's believed that there were several subsequent migrations of people from present-day Mexico. When Spanish explorers arrived in 1522, they found large Native American settlements around Lake Nicaragua and Lake Managua. Colonization soon followed, and Spain ruled for the next 300 years. Nicaragua became a fully independent country in 1834.

In the 1850s, a U.S. citizen, William Walker, attempted his own takeover of Central America and was most successful in Nicaragua—he even managed to make himself president. But two attempts to take over the rest of Central America failed. He was finally tried and executed in Honduras. Other parties, especially in the U.S., were also keeping an eye on the country in the late 1800s as a possible place to build a cross-isthmus canal that incorporated the Rio San Juan and Lake Nicaragua. It was built in Panama instead, but there are still plans on the table for Nicaragua's canal.

From the 1890s to the 1930s, various coups, rebellions and dictators were part of Nicaraguan politics. The U.S. sent troops on several occasions in an attempt to control the course of events. Anastasio Somoza became president in 1937 after ousting his rivals, including the rebel leader Augusto Sandino (who was assassinated). The Somoza family ruled Nicaragua for the next 40 years, amassing great wealth—they eventually owned a large portion of the country. Until the late 1970s, they enjoyed the continued support of the U.S.

On 17 July 1979, the dictator Anastasio Somoza fled the country after being defeated by a popular armed rebellion led by the Sandinistas. A decade-long social experiment followed, which was accompanied by a deadly and covert U.S.-funded civil war. The war ended in 1990 and cost the country 50,000 lives and untold economic and psychological damage.

The next two decades saw significant improvements in Nicaragua's physical infrastructure and standing in the world, despite several natural disasters (the deadliest was Hurricane Mitch in 1998). Politics have remained stable, though filled with corruption. Daniel Ortega, who most argue has abandoned every progressive ideal of the Sandinista revolution, was re-elected to the presidency in 2006 and delights in making world headlines through rantings and shenanigans.


Even with an ex-Marxist in power, investment and construction has continued in the tourism sector. Recent years have seen unprecedented growth in the country as the tourism and real estate markets have taken off in the southwestern part of the country.

Snapshot

Nicaragua's chief attractions are volcanoes, hiking, colonial architecture in Leon and Granada, world-class cigars, Lake Nicaragua and La Isla de Ometepe, the Corn Islands, rugged beaches, surfing, coffee and cacao plantations, wildlife viewing and bird-watching.

Ecotourists and those who are interested in the colonial and postcolonial history of Central America will probably get the most out of a trip to Nicaragua. There are also many excellent Spanish-language schools in Nicaragua.

Travelers to Nicaragua should be able to tolerate the occasional inconvenience and discomfort, some of which may not be typical in more developed destinations such as Costa Rica. Patience is key.

Potpourri

Restrooms (servicios or banos) are designated caballeros (men) and damas (women). If speaking English to locals, try saying "toilet" not "restroom."

Nicaraguans are baseball fanatics. U.S. Marines who occupied the country several times in the early 1900s are credited with introducing the sport to Nicaragua. Always check to see if there will be a game when you are visiting.

Nicaragua has a rich poetic tradition: The 19th-century poet Ruben Dario founded the modernismo movement, which exerted a strong influence on modern Spanish language writers.

Tribal customs and dialects still exist on the Caribbean coast, where distinct indigenous ethnic groups include the Rama, the Miskito and the Mayagna. English-speaking Creole groups are also common on the country's east coast, having descended from black immigrants from Jamaica and other Caribbean islands.

The Sandinistas took their name from a Nicaraguan rebel, Augusto Cesar Sandino, who fought against the U.S. Marine occupation in the early 1930s. He is considered a national hero.

In the 1980s, North American and European sympathizers went to Nicaragua to express solidarity with (and in some cases to fight alongside) the Sandinistas. They are sometimes referred to as "Sandalistas," for their preferred choice of footwear.

Land mines still speckle parts of the Nicaraguan countryside near the Honduran border—a brutal legacy of the Sandinista-Contra conflict. One of the world's largest de-mining efforts has been ongoing for more than a decade.


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