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Overview

Introduction

Lawrence, Kansas, founded in 1854 by abolitionists from Massachusetts, is remembered for its bloody involvement in the debate over slavery. At the historic Union Pacific Depot, now housing the visitor information center, visitors can watch a free film outlining Lawrence's founding and Quantrill's infamous 1863 raid. Today, this small city 28 mi/45 km east of Topeka has stunning 19th-century Italianate and Victorian houses in its Old West Lawrence historic district, a lively downtown and surprisingly good museums for its size.

Head to the University of Kansas, home to the Dole Institute of Politics (which pays tribute to Kansas native and former U.S. Senator Bob Dole); an impressive Natural History Museum with paleontological finds, natural history (including live snakes and a working bee hive) and the history of the American West (such as the horse Comanche, which survived the 1876 Battle of Little Bighorn); the Spencer Museum of Art (excellent collection of Renaissance, baroque and regional works); and the Campanile Bell Tower (World War II memorial with a 53-bell carillon). If there's time, pay a visit to Haskell Cultural Center at the Indian Nations University, which has been operating since 1884 and is the oldest inter-tribal university in the U.S.

The Midland Railway excursion train operates out of Baldwin City, south of Lawrence. Baker University is home to the Quayle Rare Bible Collection and the Clarice L. Osborne Memorial Chapel, an 1864 Gothic church shipped stone by stone from England. Baldwin City also hosts the annual Maple Leaf Festival during the third weekend of September.

Overview

Introduction

If you've got time to drive from Ottawa to Toronto, this trip will take you past some lovely scenery and through some historic towns. It runs along the St. Lawrence Seaway, the Thousand Islands and Lake Ontario. If you're starting from Ottawa, take Highway 31 south to Morrisburg, on the St. Lawrence River. (You could also reach Morrisburg by taking Highway 2 southwest from Quebec or by crossing from New York at Johnstown or Cornwall.)

Morrisburg is the home of Upper Canada Village, a living-history museum. The village's core is a cluster of buildings that were moved to their present site when the St. Lawrence Seaway was under construction. Additional period structures create an authentic St. Lawrence Valley town from the mid-1800s. Costumed interpreters make cheese, bread, quilts and cabinets—the small industry occupations of the time. The village's attention to detail makes it more convincing and enjoyable than many other historical re-creations. A ride along a canal in a horse-drawn bateau (boat) provides a relaxing way to see some of the sights.

Leave Morrisburg by heading southwest along Highway 2—parallel Highway 401 may be a little faster, but it's much more crowded and not nearly as scenic. Half an hour down the coast is Prescott, the only deepwater port between Montreal and Toronto. Fort Wellington National Historic Park in Prescott is a restored military post that was active as far back as the War of 1812.

Continue southwest along the St. Lawrence River to Mallorytown, headquarters for the St. Lawrence Islands National Park, which is the beginning of the compact archipelago known as the Thousand Islands. An unusual mix of commercial seaway and thousands of charming little islands, the area has scores of parks and major resort complexes. If you can, sign on with one of the many charter fishing boats.

When you're back on the mainland, continue on Highway 2 to Gananoque, where you can pick up cruise tours of the Thousand Islands (be sure to get one that stops at Boldt Castle on heart-shaped Heart Island). About 20 mi/32 km farther west, you'll reach Kingston.

As you head west from Kingston, be sure to take a break at one of the provincial parks along the lake: Sandbanks, North Beach or Presqu'ile. When you're rested, head for Toronto.


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