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This sacred lake of the Incas, the highest navigable major lake in the world, is a must-see. Its pristine waters change colors from dawn to dusk, depending on the clouds and the angle of the sun.
Nestled between two mountains and the shore of Lake Titicaca is the quaint town of Copacabana, a popular jumping-off point to destinations farther afield.
From Copacabana you can take day trips to the Island of the Sun and the Island of the Moon. The islands are inhabited by Aymara, the descendants of the people conquered by the Incas around AD 1400. (According to legend, the Incas considered the Aymara a very advanced society and left much of the culture intact.) Keep in mind that lots of high-altitude sunshine, reflecting waters and cool temperatures can conspire to produce a wicked sunburn—don't forget your sunscreen.
If you take a bus between La Paz and Copacabana, you'll be treated to spectacular scenery for most of the ride. The highway cuts across the Altiplano and then winds along the southern shore of the lake before coming to an end at the Straits of Tiquina. Passengers must get off the bus and board small motorboat-ferries to cross the straits. (The bus goes across on a barge.) The road resumes on the other side. If you're going on to Peru (which shares the lake with Bolivia), take the hydrofoil rather than going around the shore by bus—it's faster and the views are better. Lake Titicaca begins 35 mi/55 km west of La Paz.
Titicaca, the world's highest navigable lake, is a world unto itself—a definite must-see. It's located 560 mi/900 km southeast of Lima, on the Peru/Bolivia border, at an altitude of 12,500 ft/3,812 m. One way to see Titicaca is on the 12-hour train ride from Cuzco to Puno through the Andes, a trip that reaches an elevation of more than 14,000 ft/4,265 m as you pass by farms, people's backyards, waterfalls and bleak but wondrous scenery—clear blue sky, deep blue water and dry, barren landscape.
This is an expensive tourist train and runs three or four times a week; the local train, which was notorious for thievery, no longer operates. Tourist buses also cover this route, stopping at major sights en route. They are faster and have English-speaking guides. Peruvians and tourists on a time limit take normal buses between Cusco and Puno, usually a six-hour trip.
Don't neglect the attractions on the Bolivian side of the lake. Stop overnight in Puno, an uninspiring town near the border that's one of the best places in Peru to buy Andean handicrafts—alpaca sweaters, rugs, ponchos and tapestries. (The town is also known for its colorful fiestas and folk dances.) Then continue by bus or car to Copacabana, just across the border, for Bolivian customs formalities and to tour the cathedral or take a day trip to the Isla del Sol and Isla de la Luna. With its small-village atmosphere and charm, this town is a nice overnight stay from which you can see more of the lake.
From Puno, tours or public transport are available to Taquile Island (small Inca ruins and very nice woven goods), Sillustani on Lake Umayo (to see chullpas, the funerary towers of the ancient Colla people) and the Floating Islands (actually enormous floating reed mats that support the Uros people's villages of reed huts—you can buy reed souvenirs there).
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