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Overview

Introduction

The Amirantes are a remote coral atoll some 200 mi/320 km south of Mahe. The largest island of the group is Desroches. The island has an exclusive hideaway resort with its own landing strip. It has fine beaches and is great for scuba diving September-May.

Overview

Introduction

The old port of Antsiranana sits on one of the most beautiful bays in Madagascar, if not the world. The town is also known as Diego Suarez, the surnames of two marauding Portuguese captains who landed there in 1506 and sold several of the local inhabitants into slavery.

Unless you're traveling by yacht, the city is best reached by air, as it's 470 mi/755 km northeast of Antananarivo. The road to Antsiranana is only open July-October.

One night in the city itself is usually adequate, but add three more days if you're visiting the nearby reserves of Montagne d'Ambre and Ankarana. In the surroundings of the city, you can explore the Tsaratana massif or do a one-hour trek to the French mountain.

It is also possible to spend a few days relaxing at Ramena, a lovely beach resort 12 mi/20km from the city center.

Overview

Introduction

The small town of Geiranger, Norway, is at the base of the famous Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site. Impressive waterfalls tumble over steep cliffs along the fjord's banks, including the famous Seven Sisters, Suitor and Bridal Veil falls. Abandoned farms dot the landscape on either side.

Location

Many cruise ships enter the S-shaped Geirangerfjord, providing fantastic views from the ship itself. Others dock at Hellesylt (at the beginning of the fjord), allowing passengers to take one of the many ferries down the fjord to Geiranger.

Overview

Introduction

Iran seems to be torn between two worlds. Beneath public veils and behind closed doors, many Iranians apparently long for a little relief from the strict Islamic codes that have been enforced for more than two decades. On many rooftops, you can see satellite dishes beaming in forbidden programming from the West in open defiance of conservative legislation designed to exclude the wider world. On airplanes arriving in Tehran from elsewhere in the world, you'll see stylishly dressed Iranian women reluctantly donning shapeless coats or tentlike chadors that obscure their silhouettes.

It's equally clear that many Iranians remain reluctant to embrace Western values. Liberal-minded students continue to clash with police and Islamic conservatives in Tehran. For many travelers, the uncertainty of the political situation and the lingering anti-Western sentiments among some Iranians are enough reason to stay away. But for adventurous travelers who understand the risks, Iran can be an incredibly rewarding destination: It has ancient ruins, grand mosques, pomegranate groves, exquisite gardens and starkly beautiful desert and mountain landscapes.

Ordinary Iranians are almost unfailingly courteous and hospitable, regardless of international politics. What's more, crime is rare—the country is particularly safe for women, who are rarely subjected to the unpleasant attention common in some parts of the Middle East. Another benefit for travelers is that, because of the low volume of tourist traffic, visitors get an unjostled view of even the most important sites. On a good day you can have Persepolis practically all to yourself.

Geography

Although much of Iran is fairly flat and desolate, its average elevation is an impressive 4,000 ft/1,200 m, thanks to a scattering of towering mountain ranges, including the majestic Elburz Mountains (with the 18,386-ft/5,600-m Mount Demavend) in the north, the Zagros Mountains (with Zardeh Kuh, 14,921 ft/4,550 m) in the southwest and the Central Mountains in the east. There are also two major deserts: the Great Sand Desert (Dasht-e Lut) in the central and eastern part of Iran and the Great Salt Desert (Dasht-e Kavir) in the north. The Elburz Mountains and Great Salt Desert hold the most interest for tourists.

History

Iranians are descendants of Indo-Europeans who came from the Indian subcontinent about 2000 BC, although archaeological evidence indicates human habitation as early as 18,000 years ago. In 549 BC, Cyrus the Great began to make Persia (as Iran was then known) into a great empire that encompassed parts of eastern Europe, Egypt and India. In succeeding centuries, Persia first fell to Alexander the Great (333 BC) and later to Arabs, Turks and Mongols. In 1501, the country regained its political independence. The most lasting influence was from Arabs, who introduced Islam. (Today's Iranians embrace the Shiite branch of the religion.)

In the modern era, the Pahlavi dynasty (1925-1979) developed the country's infrastructure by using oil revenues. But the enforced modernization of society didn't penetrate beyond the social elite, leaving an angry underclass suspicious of Western influences. This wariness was reinforced by the 1954 CIA-aided coup that deposed the popularly elected prime minister and returned the shah to power.

In reaction to the oppressive regime of the shah and his Western supporters, Ayatollah Khomeini helped lead the revolution that brought to power a fundamentalist Islamic government in 1979. The world quickly got a taste of its diplomacy: A few months later, 52 staff members at the U.S. Embassy in Tehran were taken hostage for 444 days, and relations between Iran and the U.S. have remained tense since then. Shortly after the revolution, Iran's ayatollahs declared war on Iran's old enemy, Iraq, ostensibly over water rights on the Persian Gulf but more fundamentally in order to cement the revolution in martyrs' blood, a characteristically Shiite concept. The eight-year conflict had a catastrophic effect on Iran: As many as 500,000 Iranians were killed, and the drawn-out conflict left the economy in ruins.

In 1997, Iranians surprised many by electing Mohammad Khatami, a moderate cleric, as president. The conservative mullahs, led by Ayatollah Ali Khamenei, are still a powerful force, however, and the political seesaw swung the other direction in 2005 with the election of Mahmoud Ahmadinejad. Formerly mayor of Tehran, President Ahmadinejad is a hard-line conservative whose tough stance on nuclear weapons for Iran is likely to raise serious concerns in the international community. In particular, he has said he "can't imagine" restoring ties with the U.S. Criticism of Iran's nuclear program, paradoxically, has strengthened the hard-liners who like to play up their nationalist, anti-U.S. credentials—even when it means scuppering foreign investments such as Tehran's new airport and a proposed mobile-phone system. Yet, as long lines outside European embassies and full-to-bursting Internet cafes show, young and educated Iranians still yearn for a taste of life in the West. Many of them now fear a return to the restrictions imposed immediately following the nation's Islamic revolution.

Snapshot

The chief attractions of Iran are Persian culture, archaeological ruins, teahouses, beautiful architecture, fabulous rugs and mountain climbing.

Iran will appeal to adventurous travelers who have visited the Middle East before and are willing to adhere to the conservative tenets of the Shiites.

Potpourri

Iran is a theocratic country—meaning that the nation's top leaders are all Muslim clerics, or mullahs. They wear distinctive gray robes with white or black turbans, according to their rank.

Live music was banned after the 1979 revolutions, and many of Iran's musicians left the country. One who stayed is Sharam Nazeri, known as the Persian nightingale. He has become one of Iran's most popular singers. The live-music ban has since been lifted, and Nazeri performs his distinctive songs—a blend of traditional Persian music with mystical elements of Sufism—in Iran and other countries.

The most popular car in the country is the Paykan, a small, boxlike four-door sedan built from 30-year-old designs and technology. The cars cost as much as US$12,000, and the waiting list can be as long as 18 months. The Paykan logo is a stylized Sumerian horse-drawn chariot, which Iranians joke is faster than the car.

Satellite dishes first made an appearance in Iran in 1993. The initial result was a minor social revolution—suddenly millions of Iranians were able to tune in to MTV and Fox news, though nowadays many choose Al Jazeera over Western viewing. Today, the ban is widely flaunted, with millions of Iranian families hiding their dishes in trees and under plastic tarps, or even paying regular fines to the police for infringement of moral regulations.

Iranian films have won many awards at festivals around the world. At Five in the Afternoon, a story of a girl growing up in post-Taliban Afghanistan and directed by Samira Makhmalbaf, won the Grand Jury Prize and the Ecumenical Jury Prize at Cannes in 2003. Turtles Can Fly, a beautifully filmed tale of Kurdish children in the run-up to the Iraq war directed by Bahman Ghobadi also won awards at the Rotterdam and San Sebastian film festivals in 2004.

The fundamental disagreement between Shia Islam (the branch of Islam that predominates in Iran) and orthodox Sunnis is over who should have succeeded the prophet Muhammad. The Shia believe that the prophet's son-in-law and cousin, Ali, should have been the first caliph (the religious and political leader) and that only blood relatives should follow in succession. Ali eventually became the fourth caliph, but none of his descendants became caliph after him.

After Mecca, the main destinations for Shiites are the Iraqi towns of An Najaf (shrine of Ali) and Karbala (shrine of Hussein). Iran's holiest site is the city of Qom, home to the country's top seminaries, which in a theocratic country double as top schools for Iran's up-and-coming governing class.

Ashura is the Shia festival of atonement that commemorates the seventh-century killing of Al Hussein, a grandson of Islam's prophet Muhammad. Millions of Shiites around the world mourn the death by scourging themselves in public with special iron flails until blood streams down their ceremonial white robes. It is the holiest date in the Shia calendar and is celebrated during the first 10 days of Muharram, the first month in the Muslim lunar calendar.

The last shah's son lives in McLean, Virginia, and still hopes to rule Iran some day.

Friday is the Sabbath, and many businesses are open only half a day on Thursday. The workweek is generally Saturday-Wednesday.

Overview

Introduction

Tirana is a city going through an urban renewal phase; spend the day there and you will find its vigor and vitality endearing. Having dumped communism, Tirana blossoms with modern architecture that is both creative and attractive. City leaders have bulldozed unauthorized structures of shoddy construction.

As the sun sets, most of Tirana wanders down to the Bulevardi Deshmoret e Kombit (Boulevard of the Martyrs) for an evening stroll. Since the fall of communism, many hotels, restaurants and cafes have opened, and the nightlife has developed nicely.

The main sites of the city are clustered around Skanderbeg Square, the heart of downtown. In the center of the square is a statue of Skanderbeg, the Albanian national hero. Next to the statue are the graceful Tirana mosque and the city's 19th-century clock tower.

Also on the square are the four-star Tirana International Hotel, the Palace of Culture (opera and national library) and the National Museum of History (a huge revolutionary/nationalist mural on the outside and an interesting display focusing on World War II and the resistance movement on the inside). Plans are also under way to revamp the area surrounding the square with new shops and housing, as well as a large movie complex.

If you continue south on the boulevard, you'll pass the government buildings constructed during the Italian occupation of World War II. Farther south are the Fine Arts Gallery and the Hotel Dajti, which was also built during the Italian occupation.

Near the hotel is Rinia Park, previously home to a number of illegal restaurant structures and now a serene park. The park also features a structure known as "Taiwan," which contains an Italian restaurant, a cafe and, interestingly, an underground bowling alley and video-arcade complex.

Just south of the meager Lana River is the former Museum of Enver Hoxha. The building's pyramid shape can be explained by what's missing: It used to have a large illuminated red star on the top, and the building's sloping shape represented rays from the star's light. Now that the star has been removed, the building looks like a flying saucer that landed in downtown Tirana. (The museum has been converted into a cafe and conference center.)

At the end of the boulevard you'll find Mother Teresa Square, named for the holy woman, who was ethnic Albanian. Nearby are the Archaeological Museum and the Art Academy. The Polytechnic University is also there, and beyond it is the city's Grand Park.

Just outside the city—and worth the effort to get to—is the Martyrs' Cemetery, where a dramatic statue of Mother Albania looks over the city and the graves of 900 partisan soldiers who died during World War II. The cemetery once contained the grave of Enver Hoxha, but his coffin (along with those of other Communist leaders) has been moved to a cemetery across town. Plan at least two nights in Tirana.


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