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Few countries have had as quick a reversal of fortunes as Equatorial Guinea, where things are suddenly looking up. This tiny country, which consists of a few islands and a patch of mainland squeezed between Cameroon and Gabon, suffered for more than a decade under one of the cruelest despots on the continent. It then endured the legacy of policies that had destroyed the country's schools as well as its rich cocoa plantations and fishing industries. But since the beginning of a petroleum boom in 1996, change has come to this former Spanish colony where not that long ago things such as automobiles and airplanes were rare sights.
That doesn't mean, however, that Equatorial Guinea has become a more convenient place for travelers. To see its tropical rain forests, cloud-covered volcanoes and crumbling colonial cities, visitors will still have to put up with delays, low levels of sanitation and poorly maintained roads.
Prior to the arrival of Europeans in the 15th century, Equatorial Guinea was populated by Pygmies and Bantu peoples. (Their descendants, the Fang and the Bubi, are the two main ethnic groups in the country today.) The strategic location and excellent harbor of the main island, Bioko, made it the focus of European rivalry: At one time or another, the country was ruled by Portugal, England and Spain. Commerce, including the slave trade, flourished in those colonial years, and a pidgin English, still spoken by some residents of Bioko, was developed in order to communicate with passing sailors. The major colonial influence on the country was Spain, which controlled the country for many years before granting partial autonomy in 1959. Full independence was achieved in 1968.
Before independence, the country was one of the most prosperous in Africa, but its first president, Macias Nguema, ran the economy into the ground through his incompetence, paranoia and brutality (more than half the population was either murdered or driven into exile). The dictator, who called himself 'Unique Miracle,' was finally overthrown and killed by his nephew Teodoro Obiang Nguema Mbasogo in a 1979 coup. Since then, Equatorial Guinea has been ruled in the strongman tradition by Obiang, who seems more rational and humane than his predecessor (which isn't all that difficult), and who has vowed to remedy some of the human rights violations for which the country had become so notorious. However, his opponents complain that most of the proceeds of the country's oil boom have been going to Obiang and his cronies and that recent elections have been laughably fraudulent.
Beaches, surfing, volcanoes, colonial architecture and tropical scenery are among the foremost attractions of Equatorial Guinea.
The country will appeal only to those adventurous travelers who want to see lush, tropical Africa and don't mind taking the time to get there. Don't go if you are not comfortable traveling in developing countries or are upset by schedule changes, delays and below-average service and accommodations.
Though he finished last, Equatorial Guinean swimmer Eric Moussambani was one of the stars of the 2000 Olympic Games. Moussambani, who had never raced in a 50-meter pool prior to the Games, struggled to complete his 100-meter race but received a standing ovation when, clearly exhausted, he touched the wall more than a minute after the leaders.
Though the Bubi are a statistical minority in Equatorial Guinea's population (about 80% of the country's people are Fangs), they consider themselves the original inhabitants of Bioko Island. In 1998, the Bubi issued a proclamation calling for the Fang people to abandon the island (and its lucrative natural resources). The proclamation was ignored, but resentment between the two groups still exists.
During the 1993 elections, the Equatorial Guinean government accused the U.S. ambassador of practicing witchcraft because he visited British military graves on election day. The U.S. subsequently closed its embassy in Malabo.
While Spanish is the official language of the country, Fang and Bubi are the native tongues of most of the nation's inhabitants. French is also an official language, though it is typically spoken only in the country's major cities. This is due in part to good trade relations with French-speaking neighbors Cameroon and Gabon. In July 2007, President Obiang and his government declared Portuguese the country's third official language. Pidgin English is also spoken on a colloquial level.
A volcanic chain that begins with Mount Cameroon (in Cameroon) extends through Bioko Island and the nation of Sao Tome and Principe and ends at Annobon (Pagalu) Island, a possession of Equatorial Guinea.
On a clear day, often at dawn, you can see Mount Cameroon from Malabo, although it is about 45 mi/75 km away.
Many of Equatorial Guinea's people are very religious. The nation's Catholics survived eight years of persecution during the dictatorial rule of Macias Nguema. You may wish to attend Sunday Mass in Malabo or Bata. The music is a beautiful, rhythmic adaptation of African music to the Catholic religious service.
Amnesty International reports that torture is still routine in the nation's prisons.
Guinea is one of West Africa's better-kept secrets. Following its independence from France in 1958, it was isolated not only from European influence, but also from its African neighbors, and that was how the country's leaders wanted it.
But in recent decades, Guinea has slowly begun to open up to the outside world, offering a rare glimpse of African life without a veneer of European culture or the corrupting influences of tourism. You'll find a wide variety of peoples, many of them farmers and herders, scattered across Guinea's plateaus, hills and valleys.
Originally known as Jalonkadougou, the highlands of modern-day Guinea were once part of the Mali Empire. The descendants of the Mali rulers are known as Malinke. Later, Fulani immigrants arrived, bringing the teachings of Islam with them, and by the 18th century, Muslims had consolidated their power, forming the Kingdom of Fouta Djallon. They engaged in the slave trade with Arabs in the north and with Europeans on the coast. The French arrived in Guinea in 1849 and, taking advantage of factional strife, gained control and administered the area until independence in 1958. Although other former French colonies maintained strong ties with France, Guinea—led by strongman Sekou Toure—struck out on its own. "We prefer poverty in freedom to riches in slavery," Toure declared, and, following his own peculiar brand of socialism, he led Guinea from being one of the most prosperous African colonies to being one of the poorest countries in the world. What's more, Toure seemed to equate independence with detachment, and the nation became increasingly isolated.
Following Toure's death in 1984, a military regime led by Lansana Conte took over and made slow but steady progress in rebuilding the nation, and the country held its first multiparty elections in 1993. Economic progress has been negligible, however, despite the country's rich mineral deposits—bauxite, diamonds, uranium, gold and manganese—and fertile soil—on which rice, bananas and coffee are grown. Political progress also seems to be lacking: The European Union refused to appoint observers to Guinea's presidential elections held in December 2003; any real opposition to Conte's party, the Party for Unity and Progress (PUP), was forced out of the race. Though Conte maintained his reign, his days are thought to be numbered: The president is in debilitatingly poor health, and he refuses to groom a successor. An assassination attempt in January 2005 has heightened political tensions.
Guinea's chief attractions are beaches, markets, mountains and forests, ethnically diverse populations, and outstanding West African music and dance.
Guinea will appeal to experienced travelers who are interested in interacting with its open, welcoming people. Its poor infrastructure—notably roads, telecommunications and electricity—makes for rough traveling, and tourist facilities are lacking. Yet the country boasts some of the most stunning hikes and waterfalls, and its friendly people can lead to some fascinating cross-cultural exchanges.
The women of Guinea have played a significant role in the country's modern history. In 1977, women led a revolt against former dictator Sekou Toure's policy of banning market sales of farm produce. Women working in the markets rioted and killed the governors of three provinces. The first day of the revolt, 27 August, has since become a national holiday.
Kwame Ture, the militant U.S. black activist known as Stokely Carmichael, made his home in Guinea after leaving the U.S.
Many university-educated Guineans studied agricultural engineering, because it was virtually the only course of study that Sekou Toure allowed.
Because of its cultural blend, Guinea's dance and music are among the most vibrant in Africa.
Guinea was one of the premier producers of bananas in the world in 1960 (100,000 tons). Because of its disastrous economic policies, the country was able to harvest only 162 tons by 1982.
Guinea has about one-third of the world's bauxite (aluminum) deposits.
Sekou Toure was known as the Supreme Guide of the Revolution. He drove some 20% of Guineans into exile and imprisoned, tortured and starved thousands of others. During his reign, Conakry became notorious as a KGB base in Africa.
Les Amazones, an internationally acclaimed traditional drumming group, is made up entirely of women—though the djembe drum is traditionally a man's instrument.
Sore losers, the departing French yanked out lightbulbs and burned medicines when Guinea refused to join the French African Community upon independence in 1958. Overnight, Guinea was left without administrators, archives, development plans—and lightbulbs. Some would say the country has never recovered.
Every spring since the death of Sekou Toure, hundreds of Catholic pilgrims have walked the 90 mi/144 km from Conakry to Boffa, home of Guinea's first Catholic mission. The mission's current pastor, among 150 French clergyman expelled by Toure in the 1960s, returned to Guinea after the dictator's death.
Called the Water Castle of west Africa, Guinea claims the sources of four major rivers—the Niger, Mali, Gambia and Senegal, as well as many lesser ones.
Like so many countries in Africa, tiny Guinea-Bissau is clinging to a fragile peace between factions that not long ago were at each other's throats. In the late 1990s, a civil war between the army and the government displaced hundreds of thousands of people and accomplished nothing. Even if those factions continue to coexist peacefully, Guinea-Bissau will have a long way to go before it can attract more than the most-adventurous tourists.
The most appealing part of Guinea-Bissau (pronounced geenee-bee-SAOW) is just offshore: the Bijagos Archipelago. The mainland is thick with jungle, and its cities are decaying. But the Bijagos Islands, with lots of sandy beaches and fresh seafood, retain a simplicity and ease—life has remained virtually unchanged in the past 100 years. For travelers, this can be a mixed blessing because the modern world also includes such conveniences as hot water, electricity and air-conditioning. But for those looking to truly escape modern living, the Bijagos can be a perfect hideaway.
Guinea-Bissau's colonial period began in the 1450s, about 300 years before the rest of the region. That era left an especially deep impression on the country's present-day character. As significant as the timing was the colonizing power: Portugal. Most of the rest of the region was controlled by France or Britain.
The Portuguese first exported gold and slaves, but even after these "resources" could no longer be exploited, Portugal was reluctant to let go of its colony. Nor did it bother to develop the nation's infrastructure or to educate the people: When independence finally came in 1974, only 2% of the population were literate, and the country's only industry was a brewery.
For most residents, independence brought little change. The new government embraced both capitalism and, later, communism, though neither was able to stimulate the economy. Multiparty elections were not held until 1994.
In 1998, an army coup sent the country into civil war. A peace accord was signed in 1999, but subsequent coup attempts kept the situation tense. In 2005, presidential elections placed former military ruler Joao Gernardo Vieira in power.
Guinea-Bissau still has severe economic problems and is at times unable to pay its military and civil servants. Needless to say, tourism is a low priority for today's leaders of Guinea-Bissau.
Bijagos Islands, beaches, rare (and rarely seen) saltwater hippos, manatees, mangroves, birds and West African culture are the primary attractions of Guinea-Bissau.
Guinea-Bissau is only for those who have traveled extensively in developing countries, who don't mind inconveniences and who want to say they've been everywhere. Don't go if you're simply curious about West Africa—there are better destinations in the region.
The kora is a 21-stringed instrument made from an animal-skin-covered gourd, with fishing lines for strings. The most popular kora performer is Kaba Mane. Guinea-Bissau also has some nice guitar music, based on Portuguese and Spanish styles with an African influence.
More than 20 tribes make up the population, with Balante, Fulani, Manjaco and Malinke making up the largest ethnic groups. Each tribe has its own language, but everyone understands Crioulo (Kriolu), a Portuguese-African language. Most visitors find the people relaxed and hospitable.
In the Bijagos Islands, women own most of the property, choose their husbands and control inheritances.
Guinea-Bissau's most famous director, Flora Gomes, films on location and recruits villagers as actors and extras. Mortu Nega (Death Denied), about the Guinea-Bissau revolution, was the director's first film and was well received in Europe. The Fellini-style Udju Azul di Yonta (The Blue Eyes of Yonta) is a continuation of and commentary on the first film and has received more international acclaim.
The baobab tree is a symbol of peace in Guinea-Bissau.
The cashew tree bears a red or yellow fruit as well as the famed nut, which has its own gray casing. Try the sweet and juicy fruit, but beware of the nut: It's poisonous and must be processed to make it edible.
It is estimated that less than half of the people can read and write.
Papua New Guinea (PNG) was one of the last inhabited places on Earth to be explored by other nations—and it's still the land of the unexpected. Travelers to this wild and beautiful island nation are in store for plenty of surprises—both good and bad.
On the positive side, there is the unspoiled nature of the landscape: isolated beaches, volcanic mountains, primal rivers and dense jungles. PNG's indigenous cultures, too, have retained much of their original character. With an incredible 700 separate languages still spoken, the country has tribal cultures as diverse as its flora and fauna.
Unfortunately, those same qualities that make the country so unusual also contribute to the downside of travel there. Because many of its people have remained isolated in the rugged countryside, there are unresolved tribal enmities and rivalries that have only been partially muted into the annual dance and costume competitions known as "sing-sings." In a number of regions, you'll still see fierce warriors carrying bows and quivers of arrows—just in case.
Everywhere you travel in the country, you're trespassing on someone's land. The attitude of the people whose land you're traversing will range from friendly to fearsome, although those who welcome visitors far outnumber the few who don't. But of more concern than stepping on tribal boundaries is PNG's general crime problem, which has plagued urban and rural areas for years, and which appears to be increasing in the capital, Port Moresby. Some sites (such as the Baiyer River area, one of the country's most interesting nature reserves) are too dangerous to visit.
There is, however, a way to minimize PNG's downside: Visit the country on an escorted tour. We seldom issue a blanket recommendation for this option, but independent travelers will have a hard time relaxing enough to enjoy PNG. Even on a tour, expect an atmosphere tinged with some paranoia.
Scuba diving, trekking, beaches, river cruises and rafting, jungles, animal and bird watching, saltwater fishing, tribal cultures, cave exploration and orchids are the main attractions of Papua New Guinea.
Papua New Guinea is recommended only for flexible, seasoned travelers interested in excellent scuba diving or primitive cultures. We do not recommend the country to inexperienced travelers, those who require world-class hotels or anyone whose trip would be ruined by mosquitoes, heat, humidity, delays or schedule changes. Organized tours are highly recommended for all but the most adventurous visitors who have plenty of time.
Sugarcane originated on the island of New Guinea. Arabs brought the plant to Spain, and the conquistadors carried it to the New World.
Chewing betel nuts, a local pastime in New Guinea, is a rather messy ritual. First, you chew the betel nut's fleshy core to a pulp. Then you dip various parts of a mustard plant into a bowl of lime (a white powder made from crushed sea shell that has been baked) and carefully add the stuff to your mouthful of pulp. When chewed together, this combination should produce a bright red liquid that must be spat out repeatedly, as if one were chewing tobacco.
There is particularly good diving in the Milne Island group, the Bismarck Sea and—one of the late Jacques Cousteau's favorite spots—Wuvulu Island. About 500 wrecks from World War II lie beneath the waters of PNG.
More than a million U.S. military personnel served in and around PNG during World War II. It was also there that General Douglas MacArthur earned the nickname "Dugout Doug," because he never visited the frontline troops.
The Kula Ring is the term used around Milne Bay to describe certain exchanges of goods. Historically, armlets were traded among islands in a counterclockwise fashion, and shell necklaces went clockwise.
Magazines and literature deemed pornographic are subject to confiscation, and their owners may be fined heavily. Blank videotapes are subject to customs duty and must be declared.
About 700 languages have been identified in the country, and of these, only 350-450 are related. Most are extremely complex grammatically.
Among specialty tours we've seen offered over the years are those that feature World War II sites, spelunking, diving, ethnological/anthropological/archaeological programs, white-water rafting (on the Watut and Waghi Gorge Rivers—both in the Highlands and jungle areas), climbing snowcapped Mt. Wilhelm (15,850 ft/4,830 m—best views tend to be in the early morning hours), trekking the southern Highlands near Mendi and Lake Kutubu and taking a cruise through the reefs from Madang to Rabaul.
More varieties of orchids are found in PNG than anywhere else on Earth.
More than US$500,000 in gold was discovered on Woodlark Island, in Milne Bay, during its gold rush.
The black-eared giant rat, found in PNG's forested mountains, can weigh up to 4.5 lb/2 kg and is a vegetarian.
Port Moresby has a "show" (festival) in mid July featuring singing, dancing, colorful costumes and a general party atmosphere. Mt. Hagen has one in late July and Goroka in mid August. If you're not planning on participating, avoid those times.
U.S. aviator Amelia Earhart's plane disappeared after taking off from Lae's Airport in 1937. Some believe she disappeared near New Britain.
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