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Overview

Introduction

The dramatic, rugged peaks of the Teton Range virtually erupt from the flat plains and Snake River valley, creating a landscape that at times appears to be an illusion. Photographers and artists attempt to capture the majesty and breathtaking views, but their results never fully convey the experience of standing at the Snake River overlook with the entire range spread before you or being on the shore of Leigh Lake, looking straight up from the base of Mount Moran.

Just down the road from Yellowstone, Grand Teton National Park is a world of its own—a string of peaks abruptly rising 7,000 ft/2,170 m from a base of shimmering mountain lakes, sagebrush flats along the spectacular Snake River and a wealth of easy to moderate trails leading to scenic spots. Sightings of moose, elk, deer and pronghorn are plentiful, with grizzly and black bears occasionally appearing on even the busiest trails. Bald eagles, falcons and white pelicans dot the sky, and wildflowers add vibrant color all summer long.

Although there is a fair amount of development, this remains a wild area where natural habitats are diligently preserved. Even with more than 3 million visitors a year, there is enough space to get away from the crowds.

Must See or Do

Sights—The ferry across Jenny Lake; the drive to the top of Signal Mountain; the Cathedral Group.

Museums—The collection of Native American art and artifacts at the Colter Bay Indian Arts Museum.

Memorable Meals—A blackberry margarita and nachos at Deadman's Bar in Signal Mountain Lodge; the five-course dinner at Jenny Lake Lodge Dining Room.

Walks—Hike to Inspiration Point or Lake Solitude.

Geography

Most of the 40-mi-/65-km-long, 15-mi-/24-km-wide valley of Jackson Hole lies within Grand Teton National Park, which is framed by the town of Jackson to the south and connected to Yellowstone by the Rockefeller Parkway to the north. The western half of the park is covered by the rugged peaks of the Teton Range erupting from the landscape, and the eastern edge is defined by the Snake River and expansive sagebrush flats.

Getting around is easy: Teton Park Road runs up the middle of the park past Jenny and Jackson Lakes, as well as to most of the park's lodging and campgrounds. A one-way scenic loop off Teton Park Road heads to String Lake and Leigh Lake and to Jenny Lake Lodge. Highway 191 heads along the Snake River and the eastern border to Moran Junction before the roads join and continue on through Colter Bay and into Yellowstone.

The most popular entrances to the park are at Moose and Moran. There is also an entrance station near Teton Village. All entrance stations require that visitors either present a valid National Park Service park pass or buy one specifically for Grand Teton and Yellowstone national parks. The latter pass is valid for one week.

History

Grand Teton almost didn't become a national park. The saga began in the late 1800s. Yellowstone was created in 1872, and there was interest in protecting the area south of the park. The Teton Forest Reserve was created by the U.S. Congress in 1897, and for the next 25 years the debate raged about including the Tetons as part of Yellowstone. Horace Albright, the superintendent of Yellowstone was for it, many local ranchers were against it, and every attempt at a bill failed.

A 1923 meeting at the cabin home of Maud Noble (the cabin still exists near the park's Moose entrance) brought together those who were striving to obtain protection for the area. The group wanted to find a wealthy patron to buy the land and keep it out of the hands of the park service. After a few years of looking for a patron, they began to soften their stance, and in 1929, Grand Teton National Park was established. Its 96,000 acres/38,850 hectares included the Teton Range and six glacial lakes at the base of the peaks.

Albright and others eventually convinced John D. Rockefeller Jr. to assist them in expanding the area. Rockefeller spent the next decade quietly purchasing 35,000 acres/14,165 hectares of land, intending to donate it to the park. The donation was not accepted until U.S. President Franklin D. Roosevelt chose to accept the land, creating the Jackson Hole National Monument by a presidential decree.

The U.S. Congress subsequently passed a bill to dismantle the national monument, but Roosevelt vetoed it. The state of Wyoming then sued the National Park Service to reverse the designation, but lost. It took seven years after that for the parties to come to a consensus, and in 1950 Grand Teton National Park and Jackson Hole National Monument were merged into a single entity.

Potpourri

The coldest recorded temperature in Grand Teton National Park (and in the state of Wyoming) was -63 F/-53 C (without the wind chill). It was record at Moran Junction—twice, once in 1933 and again in 1978.

If you think the Grand Teton looks like it would be difficult to climb, imagine skiing it. Bill Briggs was the first person to do so, on 16 June 1971. Now, dozens of expert skiers climb to the summit each year, step into skis and slide on down.

The 300-some pronghorn that summer in Grand Teton National Park make the longest terrestrial migration, about 170 mi/274 km, of any wildlife population outside of Alaska. They winter in the Red Desert in southern Wyoming.

Mount Moran was named for Thomas Moran, the artist who accompanied the 1872 Hayden Expedition to the area. His watercolors and sketches from that trip were the first detailed documentation of Yellowstone's geothermal wonders. On a return trip he painted the majestic peaks of the Tetons.

In the early 1800s, the range was called The Three Tetons, a name coined by early trappers and mountain men.

Teton is a French word that means "woman's breast."

Grand Teton (13,770 ft/4,270 m), Teewinot (12,325 ft/3,820 m) and Mount Owen (12,928 ft/4,010 m) make up the imposing mountain trio called The Cathedral Group.


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