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As capital of the Umayyad caliphate of Spain (929-1031), Cordoba was one of the largest and most advanced cities in the medieval world. The splendor of that period can still be seen in the Mezquita (built and enlarged between the eighth and 10th centuries), known as one of the greatest sights in Spain. Rows of columns and red-and-white-striped horseshoe arches, the ornately decorated mihrab (prayer niche), and maqsura (area reserved for the caliph) will not fail to impress. The cathedral that was inserted into the middle of the mosque in the 16th century will also inspire you to reflect on Spain's varied history.
Surrounding the Mezquita is the historic quarter—a district of narrow, winding streets with some of the outer walls preserved, medieval gates, plazas and charming patios brimming with bright flowerpots. The Jewish Quarter, just northeast of the Mezquita, is a good place to start strolling. Architecturally speaking, there is not much left of the Alcazar (palace) of the Christian monarchs, but the gardens are lovely. A walk across the Roman Bridge will give you a good view of the city and mosque, as well as a noria (waterwheel) and old mills on the Guadalquivir River.
We also recommend a day trip to Medina Azahara, particularly if you're interested in Islamic architecture. The palatial city was built in the 10th century to the west of Cordoba and is considered a high point in Moorish art. Although only a portion of the city has been excavated so far, some of its buildings have been reconstructed, which gives you an idea of the rich ornamentation used at that time. A guide is helpful for orientation and to explain the significance of various buildings and sites.
Plan to spend at least one night in Cordoba, which lies 185 mi/300 km south of Madrid. If visiting in May, enjoy the festival of patios, when scores of immaculate, private courtyards are opened to the public and owners compete for the best floral displays. You'll also be treated to performances of flamenco song and dance.
Colonial Cordoba, Argentina, the nation's second-largest city, lies 400 mi/645 km northwest of Buenos Aires in the center of a many-rivered region. Although it receives few tourists, the area will appeal to anyone attracted to a relaxed, natural lifestyle amid rolling hills and valleys (the land is semiarid, despite the river's presence).
Don't miss the cathedral in the center of town, the university (Argentina's oldest and most prestigious, founded in 1613) and the Museum of Regional History. The city's 17th- and 18th-century Jesuit Block and estancias are a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Three popular resort towns are located nearby: Villa Carlos Paz, a scenic half-day trip from Cordoba, and Mina Clavero, a bit farther afield and boasting many natural swimming pools. Villa General Belgrano, meanwhile–which is named for the general who created Argentina's flag—is also worth a visit for its German culture and architecture. It's at its busiest in spring, when the German-founded town celebrates Oktoberfest. Located in the rolling green hills about two hours south of Cordoba, revelers visit from all around the country, keen to sample craft beer from the area and celebrate as if they were in Munich.
Most people enjoy one night in Cordoba, although if you're a fan of colonial architecture, you'll want at least another day. The laid-back nature of the city and its small satellite towns in the province make it a refreshing alternative to busy Buenos Aires for those looking to be in the great outdoors.
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