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Overview

Introduction

An oil-rich speck on the north coast of Borneo, the country of Brunei Darussalam is well known for its free-spending Sultan (whose full name is His Majesty Sultan Haji Hassanal Bolkiah Mu'izzaddin Waddaulah ibni Al-Marhum Sultan Haji Omar Ali Saifuddien Sa'adul Khairi Waddien), long considered one of the richest people in the world. He is the 29th sultan replacing his father who abdicated in 1967. After the Queen of England, he is the second longest reigning current monarchy. The Sultan has most significant portfolios of governance under control, as he is also the Prime Minister, the Defense Minister and the Finance Minister as well the Head of Religion.

Travelers to Brunei (pronounced brew-NIGH) will actually find a rather modest, low-key place country mostly covered in rain forest. Modernization has been largely restricted to its capital, Bandar Seri Begawan, which has gleaming modern buildings, although few skyscrapers (the current highest building is the 21-storey Ministry of Finance building), good roads and modern conveniences.

The surrounding forest is largely unspoiled, as most of the country's oil and gas reserves are near the coast or offshore. With its comfortable income, Brunei hasn't had to exploit its other natural resources yet, although there are plans in the works to diversify its economy with more industry, technology, fisheries, agriculture and forestry.

Most of Brunei's income is derived from oil and gas belonging to the Sultan, although enough of the wealth is spread around to make the country's per-capita income one of the highest in the world. The Brunei Investment Agency (BIA) oversees much of the revenue from oil and gas.

Housing is subsidized and available for all citizens. Education from kindergarten through the university level is mostly free for citizens. Tuition fees and expenses for the students with the highest grades to attend universities abroad are also covered by the government. Pensions and medical care are taken care of by the government. And there's no personal income tax.

Geography

Located on the northwestern coast of the island of Borneo, Brunei consists of two coastal areas separated by a finger of Sarawak, the Malaysian state. Brunei fronts the South China Sea and is basically surrounded inland by Sarawak with Sabah, another Malaysian state to the north.

The country ranges from coastal plain to hilly lowland and is mostly covered in tropical lowland rain forest. It is divided into four districts: Belait (west), Tutong (west-central), Brunei-Muara (central) and Temburong (east).

History

Brunei is one of the oldest Southeast Asian nations. It was mentioned in ancient Chinese literature as being a "45-day sail away." In the 16th century, it was a powerful state, ruling over Borneo and parts of the Sulu Islands and the Philippines. For nearly 100 years, it was under British protection. Full independence didn't come until 1984 (the Sultan celebrated by building one of the largest palaces in the world). The country was renamed Brunei Darussalam, meaning Abode of Peace.

Today it's an Islamic nation, ruled by the Sultan, who has absolute control. (Portraits of the Sultan are mandatory in all homes, shops and offices.) The Sultan's family has controlled the country for 500 years, making it one of the world's longest dynasties. The peaceful abode of the Sultan's palace was shake in 2000 when the Sultan's younger brother, Prince Jefri Bolkiah, was brought to trial by the Sultan himself for misappropriating billions from the state's coffers. Things got a little messy with legal cases in various parts of the globe and were considered one of the most costly legal battles in the world.

The scandal has raised questions about the previously blurry separation between the royal family's personal wealth and Brunei's treasury. The Sultan has promised to address this issue, along with concerns about how to sustain the country's economic welfare as its oil and gas reserves begin to diminish, though no definite plans have been presented. Assets were seized and returned to the state and in 2009; Prince Jefri was allowed to return to Brunei and appears in public every so often.

Snapshot

Water villages, extravagant buildings, Southeast Asian-Islamic culture, a clean and modern city, rain forests and friendly people are among the foremost attractions of Brunei.

Travelers need not go out of their way to visit Brunei but for those visiting the island of Borneo, it makes good sense to spend a few days there. While the sights are limited and nightlife is virtually nonexistent, the natural attractions in Temburong include some of the finest rain forests in the world. Combining Brunei with visits to the neighboring Malaysian states of Sarawak and Sabah makes for a good travel plan.

Potpourri

The Sultan of Brunei's personal wealth has been estimated at US$10 billion, down from US$35-$40 billion during the mid 1990s. The Asian economic crisis of 1997-1998 and a dip in oil prices account for most of the drop in the Sultan's fortune. Of course, a reversal in the oil price leads to an increase in the Sultan's and Brunei's net wealth.

Tales of the Sultan's lavish spending are legendary—he once left a reported US$170,000 tip for hotel staff in Cyprus.

Jawi is the term for the Malay language written in Arabic script. Many signs are written in both Jawi and Roman characters.

Brunei has one of the highest per-capita car ownership rates in the world, even though there are only about 600 mi/970 km of roads, many of which are unpaved. Petrol is cheap and drivers tend to be polite with very little horn blowing.

The Portuguese explorer and mariner Ferdinand Magellan visited Brunei in 1521 on the first circumnavigation of the earth.

The diversity of nature in Brunei is astonishing. An entomologist once identified 400 species of beetles on one tree alone. Monkeys, crocodiles, giant monitor lizards, monkeys and a dazzling array of birds live in its forests and along its rivers.

More than 70% of the country is forest, and 60% of that is virgin rain forest. Brunei really is the green lungs of Asia with most of its rainforests so far untouched. For those who want to enjoy a truly natural experience in the rainforest, Brunei could well be the answer.

Brunei now makes about half of its income from oil and natural gas, which is expected to last for at least another 20 years, and half from overseas investments. The government has encouraged the formation of private enterprise to prepare for the day when the wells run dry, but the country's tiny domestic market, lack of skilled labor and steep wages have seriously hindered the development of private businesses.

The collection of European art in the Sultan's palace is the envy of many a museum.

There are four universities in the country, but many of the best and brightest in Brunei are sent to the United Kingdom for higher education.

In addition to the Sultan's palace, you may run across the homes of other members of the royal family. Take our word for it—you'll know them when you see them.


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