Overview

Introduction

India's Andaman and Nicobar Islands are located in the Bay of Bengal, more than 750 mi/1,200 km southeast of Kolkata. These 300-plus islands are really off the beaten path.

The Andamans, once famous for being home to Kalaa Pani, a jail for political prisoners during colonial rule, now offer nice beaches, palm trees, dense forests, farms, swampy land and a wide variety of ethnic people. Mud volcanoes can be seen boiling on some. A volcano at Barren Island, 87 mi/140 km from Port Blair, exploded in 2005, after laying dormant for 107 years, and is still erupting.

The Nicobar Islands, 10 mi/16 km south of the Andamans, are still primitive, offering few tourist facilities.

The Andamans are reached by air from Kolkata, Chennai or Delhi, or by a three-day boat ride to Port Blair in the Andamans. Travel between the islands is by boat. Only a few islands are open to visitors, and even those require special permits for a limited stay. Some cruise lines also dock at Port Blair as a port of call. Port Blair is a 45-minute flight away from Phuket.

Overview

Introduction

Overview

Introduction

One of the most popular summer destinations in Montenegro, Bar's coastline is 27 mi/44 km long, making it a favorite with beach lovers. Located 47 mi/76 km southwest of Podgorica, Bar consists of the Old Town and the New Town.

The Old Town (Stari Bar) is an ancient city on a rocky hill located approximately 3 mi/5 km from the Adriatic Sea, and the New Town is located directly on the Adriatic seashore. In the Old Town, you can see cultural sites including ramparts, a citadel, an 11th-century town gate and a restored Diocesan palace.

The Old Town has been deserted since the 19th century, when most of the buildings were destroyed during an invasion by the Turks. Some restoration has been done to the ruins, particularly after a major earthquake in 1979. Ferries are available from Bar to Ancona and Bari in Italy.

Overview

Introduction

The town of Bar Harbor, Maine, thrives in the shadow of Acadia National Park. The name of the street that leads into town is Eden, which pretty much says it all. Cadillac Mountain looks over 44,000 acres/17,806 hectares of pine forests stretching all the way to Bar Harbor. To the south, waves crash against steep, rocky cliffs. Dozens of smaller, wooded isles dot the deep blue water.

Bar Harbor sits on Mount Desert Island (pronounced duh-ZERT, as in what follows dinner). Almost half of Maine's largest isle is part of Acadia National Park, thanks to industrialist John D. Rockefeller Jr. and other wealthy summer residents who bought and donated land to protect it from development.

The national park, the country's first one east of the Mississippi River, is the island's main attraction, but few visitors leave without sampling the hustle and bustle of nearby Bar Harbor. The town's sprawling mansions, delightful cottages, eclectic shops, international cuisine (not to mention the justly famous lobster) and nearby lighthouses add to its appeal.

Must See or Do

Sights—Sunrise from the top of Cadillac Mountain; the view of Frenchman Bay from Schooner Head Trail and Overlook; standing on the deck of a boat in the Atlantic; touring Acadia National Park in a horse-drawn carriage.

Museums—Native American arts and crafts at the Abbe Museum in downtown Bar Harbor; an intimate look at lobster procreation and the lobster fishing industry at the Mount Desert Oceanarium.

Memorable Meals—Just-caught lobster at Thurston's Lobster Pound; popovers at the Jordan Pond House; wild-Maine-blueberry pancakes at Jordan's Restaurant; eggs Benedict topped with lobster and basil at Cafe This Way.

Late Night—Comedy at ImprovAcadia; dancing at Carmen Verandah.

Walks—A stroll along the Shore Path, with views of Frenchman Bay and magnificent old summer cottages; a hike up Great Head Trail in Acadia National Park.

Especially for Kids—Skip brisk waves at Sand Beach; experience an impromptu touch tank on Diver Ed's Dive-In Theater Boat Cruise; see humpbacks and finbacks on a whale-watching expedition; become a junior ranger at Acadia National Park.

Geography

Bar Harbor is a small coastal town on Mount Desert Island, the largest of more than 3,000 islands off the Maine coast and the largest rock-based island on the Atlantic seaboard. The town is surrounded on three sides by Acadia National Park, one of the country's most-visited national parks, and has rocky shores abutting the Atlantic on its fourth side. The town itself is 27,000 acres/10,926 hectares and enjoys about 28 mi/45 km of coastline.

After you cross the bridge from the mainland, there are two routes into Bar Harbor: Route 3 leads to the downtown section and is considered the more direct and traditional route. Route 102 winds through the quaint village of Town Hill, with its farm-to-table restaurants and artists' studios, and from there to the ultra-exclusive summer community of Northeast Harbor.

History

Mount Desert Island's first seasonal visitors were Native Americans who lived on the mainland and ventured to the coast for its mild temperatures and abundant food resources. French explorer Samuel de Champlain was the first European to visit the island when he ran aground there in 1604. He named the island Isle des Monts Deserts for the rocky, barren mountain summits he saw.

For centuries, the Native American Abenaki people had stalked deer, fished, dug clams and paddled birch-bark canoes along the island's shores. It wasn't until 1763 that English fisherfolk and farmers settled the area. In 1796, they incorporated the town they named Eden. The last Native Americans left the island by the end of the 19th century, and the town was rechristened Bar Harbor in 1918.

In the mid-1800s, Bar Harbor attracted poets and artists, who were soon followed by wealthy U.S. tycoons who visited each summer to rusticate, as they called it, in the wild, albeit in many cases in sumptuous surroundings. The area's blossoming tourism development can be credited mainly to Thomas Cole and Frederic Church, notable and influential artists of the Hudson River School. Soon, wealthy art patrons with a desire to explore the area they so often saw captured in paintings began to seek respite in the area's dramatic landscapes.

The first significant hotel catering to the influx of visitors was built in 1855. Although many hotels followed, there was a limit to how rustic these visitors were willing to get. Still desiring the comforts of home, many visitors built their own palatial Newport-like cottages to serve as their summer residences.

This world of privilege was wiped out by the Great Fire of 1947, which leveled most of the mansions and took nearly a month to extinguish. A definitive cause of the fire was never discovered, although evidence points to a rubbish fire at a tow dump; but rumors that the fire was intentionally set by townspeople disgruntled with the community's growing opulence were unfounded.

The devastation forever altered the island's landscape and character. Bar Harbor was rebuilt as a more democratic resort, with hotels and motels largely replacing the summer palaces. Almost all of those same inns are chock-full these days during the Maine summer and into autumn, when the village's permanent population nearly quadruples with present-day rusticators.

Potpourri

The Hope Diamond was once owned by a summer resident of Bar Harbor, Evalyn Walsh McLean. The story goes that local children were invited to play hide-and-seek with it, and that the heiress even wore the precious stone while swimming.

Eastern Maine (north of Augusta, east of Bangor) is known as "Down East" because, in seafaring times, schooners traveling north and east from Boston to Maine had the wind at their backs and sailed downwind because of the prevailing southwest winds.

Lifestyle maven Martha Stewart has a summer cottage called Skylands in Seal Harbor, a tiny community adjacent to Bar Harbor. The estate was originally built for Edsel Ford.

Cadillac Mountain in Acadia National Park is 1,532 ft/474 m high. It is the highest point within 50 mi/80 km of the sea from Maine to Rio de Janeiro. Observers on top of Cadillac Mountain are the first in the U.S. to see the sun rise on a new day.

About 80% of all U.S. lobsters are caught in Maine. In earlier times, lobsters were food for pigs, prisoners and servants—and it was only the pigs that didn't complain. Some servants even demanded in their contracts that they would not eat lobster more than twice a week. Lobster wasn't considered a decadent delicacy until the 1920s.

Hidden amidst the grandeur of this oceanside resort are more than 2 million mutant mice. The Jackson Laboratory, which sits right at the southern edge of Bar Harbor, is one of the world's leading genetic research centers. It supplies more than 5,000 varieties of specially bred mice for cancer, disease and neurological studies.

Also on the Jackson Laboratory property, now serving as a conference facility and housing for visiting researchers, is a grand cottage called Highseas. An adoring groom-to-be had this summer residence built in 1912 for his future bride; after a shopping tour of Europe to purchase her bridal trousseau, the betrothed booked her return passage aboard the Titanic. Sadly, she never saw her wedding gift from her bereaved fiance.

In November 1944, two German spies landed on Crabtree Neck beach in Hancock, across the bay from Bar Harbor. The two men had orders to send reports of U.S. industry back to Germany via radio transmissions and coded letters. Their landing site is now on the National Register of Historic Places and is one of only a handful of places in the U.S. where German spies gained access to the country during World War II.

Location

One way to see Bar Harbor and the rest of Maine's coast is on a cruise, and more and more people are doing just that, sailing between the northeastern U.S. and eastern Canada during the summer and fall.

Ocean liners anchor in Frenchman Bay outside the sandbar that gives Bar Harbor its name. Passengers are sent ashore on tenders that dock at Harbor Place or Town Pier: Both are just steps from the tourist information office, shops, restaurants and tour operators. Some taxis wait at the dock for cruise passengers.

Tourist information is available at the Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce office at 2 Cottage St. There is also a seasonal information kiosk on the pier downtown.

Bar Harbor is the gateway to Acadia National Park, so most visitors shop and dine in the town, but spend their days on the roads, trails and paths of the park.

Shore Excursions

Most cruise lines offer guided tours of Bar Harbor, Mount Desert Island and Acadia National Park as land packages during the ship's stay. Increasingly, single-day excursions are the norm; overnight stays by cruise ships are not common in Bar Harbor. Tours are not the least expensive way to see the region, but you won't waste limited time making your own arrangements—and you won't have to worry about missing the ship. Be mindful of the time if you are on foot or away from the downtown area: The ships sound their horns prior to departure (usually about 5 pm), but cannot wait for late boarders. Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.

Tour options center on exploration, ranging from guided walking, hiking or bicycling excursions to narrator-led bus tours. Many options include special dining experiences. You can also choose from several outfits eager to take guests out to sea for whale- and puffin-watching, lighthouse-viewing or to visit nearby small islands.

If arriving by ship, be sure to pick up a copy of Port O' Call Magazine, a guide published specifically for cruise-ship visitors who want to make the most of their relatively short time in town. http://www.portocallme.com.

Overview

Introduction

Baracoa, which was founded in 1511 as the first Spanish settlement on the island, is at the eastern tip of Cuba 545 mi/875 km southeast of Havana—and it may (or may not) be the place where Columbus first landed in Cuba. Surrounded by lushly forested mountains and dramatic flat-topped formations, Baracoa was cut off from the rest of the island until the early 1960s.

It's a great place to escape for a couple of days. A fort from the 1700s that overlooks the town has been turned into Hotel El Castillo. Spend your time rambling through the somewhat tumbledown town, soaking up the unique atmosphere and meeting the intriguing local characters. Every Saturday, food stalls spring up along Calle Antonio Maceo and street musicians entertain the dancing crowd. Be sure to make time to tour the beautiful—and largely untouched—rain forests and rivers in the surrounding countryside.

Overview

Introduction

Barbados is still very British. In fact, the island is commonly referred to as "Little England," and bears many of the same characteristics. Afternoon teatime is observed in some circles, cricket is the national passion and polo is played all winter. Many villages, streets, monuments and parks in Barbados are named after locations in the U.K., as well. And Bajans (BAY-juns), as they call themselves, often possess a bit of English reserve, putting emphasis on good manners.

What's more, British aristocrats have wintered in Barbados for decades, and the island reflects their influence in many ways. The resorts are luxurious, and the restaurants provide fine dining. Even duty-free shops are often more upscale than those on other Caribbean islands.

In recent years, the culture has seen an increase in American influence and more appreciation of African roots as well, resulting in a revitalized discourse on Barbadian identity, particularly in the arts. Barbados is generally conservative, and prides itself on being Christian.

Though "efficient" is a word that is not used often in the Caribbean, it fits Barbados better than many other islands. It's been catering to visitors for decades and has one of the most fully developed tourism infrastructures in the region.

Although Barbados lacks rain forests, mountainous terrain and world-class reef systems, the island's natural beauty and scenic variety are magnificent. You'll find dramatic natural caves, rocky cliffs with blowholes by the sea, miles/kilometers of sugarcane fields and some remote scenic beaches. Those seeking a week of relaxation on beautiful beaches, perhaps with a little nightlife and history mixed in, will likely be pleased with what Barbados has to offer.

The cruise ship trade is alive and well here, which can flood Bridgetown and area beaches many days, but visitors within the confines of their resort will rarely notice.

Another plus is the people of Barbados. Bajans are some of the best-educated people in the Caribbean (Barbados boasts a literacy rate of 99%), and they enjoy conversing on a wide range of subjects. This quality even spills over into entertainment: The island's calypso music always has something to say and often deals with Barbados politics.

English is the official language, but a dialect with its own syntax, special meanings and some African words is also spoken. Though it may seem like a cross between bad English and gibberish, it is remarkably expressive and is often used even by the highly educated for emphasis or comic effect.

Must See or Do

Sights—The stained-glass windows of St. Michael's Cathedral; the mysterious 1,000-year-old baobab tree in Queen's Park; the many historic military buildings at St. Anne's Garrison in Bridgetown; a distillery tour at the Mount Gay Rum refinery in St. Michael Parish; Harrison's Cave, a series of dramatic limestone caverns; Morgan Lewis Sugar Mill in St. Andrew Parish; serenely beautiful Codrington College; the Bathsheba Shoreline; Andromeda Botanical Gardens.

Museums—The island's colorful heritage at the Barbados Museum; vintage cars at the Mallalieu Motor Collection at Pavilion Court; colonial history at Sunbury Plantation House and Museum; the marine life museum within the Folkestone Marine Park; the history of sugar-making in Barbados at the Sir Frank Hutson Sugar Museum; the Nidhe Israel Museum of the island's Jewish heritage; social and political history in the Museum of Parliament and National Heroes Gallery; George Washington House at the Garrison; Arlington House in Speightstown; Springvale Eco-Heritage Museum in the scenic Scotland District; the little museum at St. Nicholas Abbey.

Memorable Meals—Sunday lunch in sea-sprayed Bathsheba at a choice of restaurants; Bajan dishes in a lush garden setting at Brown Sugar; upscale seaside dining at Cin Cin or The Cliff.

Late Night—Two happy hours and nightly music at Sugar Ultra Lounge; beach parties at Harbour Lights on Bay Street; anywhere in Oistins on the weekend.

Walks—Free nature walks with the Barbados National Trust on Sunday; guided hikes along the Arbib Heritage and Nature Trail; exploring the streets and waterfront of historic downtown Bridgetown; tranquil, green Welchman Hall Gully; the South Coast Boardwalk.

Especially for Kids—Feeding green monkeys and other local wildlife at the Barbados Wildlife Reserve; Barbados Concorde Experience next to the airport; playing on the water toys at the Boatyard.

Geography

Although the island is only 14 mi/23 km wide and 21 mi/34 km long, its geography varies dramatically. Rugged hills and rough seas are typical of the eastern side. (The highest point, Mount Hillaby, rises 1,115 ft/340 m above the sea.)

Gentle, rolling hills on the western side are lush with sugarcane fields. On the western coast, you'll also find white-sand beaches, coral reefs and stunning seas that range in color from deep blue to transparent green. This side of the island is more sheltered and offers beaches more suitable for swimming.

History

Although England eventually ruled the island, Portuguese explorer Pedro a Campos was the first European to come upon Barbados. When he visited in 1536, it was inhabited by Amerindians. They had disappeared (decimated by disease, according to one theory) by the time the first British explorer saw the island in 1625.

Two years later, 80 British settlers and their slaves landed at a site they named Jamestown (modern-day Holetown). The town prospered with the establishment of cotton, tobacco and sugar plantations.

The first labor force, however, was white, consisting mostly of indentured servants and political prisoners who had been "Barbadosed." As the more labor-intensive sugarcane evolved into the primary crop, the British colony's vast plantations were increasingly worked by African slaves. Most Bajans are descendants of those workers.

In the 1800s, slave uprisings and changes in world markets brought an end to slavery, and the prosperous industry slid into serious financial decline. Many plantations were destroyed in a series of destructive fires and hurricanes, as well. Today, only a handful of plantation great houses predate the great hurricane of 1831.

Barbados gained independence in 1966, becoming a self-governing member of the British Commonwealth. The island celebrated 350 consecutive years of parliamentary government in 1989. Barbados' growing pride in indigenous—rather than British—history was demonstrated in April 1999, when the government voted to change the name of Trafalgar Square to National Heroes Square.

Over the centuries, the economy has shifted its focus from agriculture to tourism, with international business running a close second as a foreign-exchange earner.

Snapshot

Travelers seeking an orderly Caribbean holiday with a slight British flavor will like Barbados. So will those whose curiosity is active; Barbados boasts plenty of well-interpreted sites focusing on its rich historic and natural heritage. Barbados offers a startling number of spas, fine restaurants and heritage sites per square mile/kilometer.

With a stable democratic government and a strong middle class, Barbados does not upset its guests with rampant poverty, social unrest or racial hostility. Statistics show that a good percentage of travelers are repeat visitors.

Potpourri

If you don't believe that Bajans are crazy about cricket, take a look at the country's five-dollar bill. One of its legendary players, Sir Frank Worrell, is pictured on the currency.

A 1,000-year-old baobab tree sits on the grounds of the Queen's Park House in Bridgetown. The tree is something of a mystery because baobabs are native to Africa, and this one predates the arrival of settlers from east of the Atlantic Ocean. Nobody knows how it got there.

Barbados' green monkeys were brought from West Africa more than 300 years ago, and in that time have developed unique "speech" patterns—perhaps a Bajan accent. Monkeys can often be seen in the early mornings and late afternoons, even in residential areas. Though cute, monkeys are a nuisance to farmers.

Barbados has high levels of education, income and life expectancy. Bajans frequently live to 100 years old.

Poltergeist activity has been recorded at the Christ Church parish church, where lead coffins inexplicably moved around in the Chase family vault.

The mongoose was brought to Barbados to reduce the rat population in canefields. Unfortunately, rats are nocturnal, while mongoose are active in daytime. You might see a mongoose scurrying across a country road. They look like bushy-tailed rats but, like their cousins the ferrets, are actually part of the civet family.

Barbados was named after the ficus barbata, or bearded fig tree.

Barbados is the birthplace of rum and, arguably, the grapefruit.

Barbados is the only place outside colonial America that George Washington ever visited. A young man at the time, he was impressed by Barbados' fortifications, government and advanced agricultural methods. His lifelong love of theater also originated there. More importantly, he contracted and was cured of smallpox in Barbados, rendering him immune when others succumbed during the American Revolution.

Location

At least 50% of visitors to Barbados now arrive by cruise ship. Ships dock on the southwest corner of the island at the massive Deep Water Harbour, about 1 mi/2 km west of the capital, Bridgetown. As many as six to eight cruise ships may dock at one time at one of its 14 berths. Nearly 40 different cruise lines visit, and the Barbados flag is now flown on 76 ships of other nations, making the port the second most active in the Caribbean. When going off the premises, be sure to take along your ID and sailing card so you can get back in.

Barbados Port Inc., the administrative body that governs Barbados' ports, has an excellent website, updated daily, that offers information regarding cruise-ship schedules and other information (http://www.barbadosport.com). Additional information for those arriving by cruise ship is available at http://www.barbados.org/cruise.htm.

Near the piers is a modern, disabled-friendly terminal. Its interior resembles a colorful island street scene, with storefronts reflecting the designs and colors of the island's colonial past. Inside are duty-free shops, lots of arts-and-crafts booths, souvenir and specialty shops, a business center with internet access, pay phones, a post office and a tourism office. There's an ATM that dispenses local currency as well as free Wi-Fi throughout the terminal. Outside, there's a simple restaurant under shade serving local food (a good place to select a taxi driver based on personality), and a bar with great music to put you in an island mood.

Once you disembark, take a Bds$4 shared shuttle to Bridgetown or spend Bds$6 for a shuttle to Brown's Beach (also known as Carlisle Bay) or Brighton Beach. Taxi drivers prefer to take you farther for a lot more money, and they often group cruise ship arrivals into shared taxis for a discounted rate. A taxi ride from the ship terminal to central Bridgetown will cost about Bds$12 per car. Rates are assigned by the government, but you should confirm them prior to using a cab. Preposted fares to other parts of the island range Bds$20-$70, depending on the distance. The Barbados Tourism Authority booth at the terminal provides good advice and will also assemble ad hoc groups to share the cost of island tours by taxi.

The 10- to 15-minute walk to town is landscaped along busy Princess Alice Highway and offers refreshments, art and crafts at the excellent Pelican Village en route.

Shore Excursions

Typical tours on Barbados include an island bus tour or an off-road Jeep adventure; visits to colonial plantation houses, formal gardens and other historic sites; and sailing out for a swim with the turtles, snorkeling, kayaking or taking a submarine descent to view exotic fish and colorful coral. Try to plan time to fit in a tour of the Andromeda Botanic Gardens and the Barbados Wildlife Reserve.

The beachfront Boatyard caters to cruise passengers with food and drink, sun loungers and umbrellas, and inflated water toys to climb, jump on and slide down. Shopping excursions are very popular as well, and start literally at the terminal, moving next to Pelican Village and then to the main streets of Bridgetown.

Check with your ship's shore-excursion staff or your travel agent for additional information.

Overview

Introduction

Remote and sparsely populated, Barbuda has the world's largest frigate-bird population (those large black birds that blow their big red throats up to unbelievable dimensions) and offers solitude and lots of beautiful, powdery white- and pink-sand beaches—but not much else.

Located about 25 mi/40 km north of Antigua, the island is very flat, scrubby and covered with cacti, hibiscus and red flamboyants.

Barbuda's main town, Codrington, is tiny and can be seen in a few minutes. If you're a guest on the island, you will feel as if you're part of this friendly community immediately.

Most people visit Barbuda only on a day trip, but for true solitude and quiet, you might want to stay three or four nights. And consider hiring a local guide or boatman to explore the island: It's not the easiest place to navigate on your own.

In September 2017, Hurricane Irma inflicted catastrophic damage on Barbuda. Following the storm, the island's entire population was evacuated. Recovery is ongoing and expected to take years, although more than half of damaged buildings and homes have been repaired. While hotels and beaches are open, travelers should investigate current conditions prior to planning a visit.

Overview

Introduction

Barcelona, Spain's second-largest city, is inextricably linked to the architecture of Antoni Gaudi. His most famous and unfinished masterpiece, La Sagrada Familia, is the emblem of the city.

Like the basilica, Barcelona takes traditional ideas and presents them in new, even outrageous, forms. And the city's bursts of building and innovation give the impression that it's still being conceived. Both the church and the city can be tough places to get a handle on, yet their complexity is invigorating rather than forbidding.

Since it hosted the Summer Olympics in 1992, Barcelona has been on the hot list of European destinations. The staging of the Universal Forum of Cultures in 2004 also raised the city's profile. Over the past decade, better infrastructure, increased cruise ship traffic and a reputation for gastronomic excellence have put Barcelona at the forefront of European city destinations.

Must See or Do

Sights—La Sagrada Familia; La Pedrera; La Catedral (La Seu); Santa Maria del Mar.

Museums—Museu Picasso; Museu Nacional d'Art de Catalunya; Fundacio Joan Miro; Museu d'Historia de la Ciutat; Museu Maritim de Barcelona; Caixaforum.

Memorable Meals—Lunch at Escriba Xiringuito on the seafront; high-end Mediterranean fare at Tragaluz; fashionable, inventive dishes at Semproniana; Albert Adria's Nikkei cuisine at Pakta; creative, seasonal Catalan fare at Gresca.

Late Night—Flamenco at Los Tarantos; drinks and a view at Mirablau; wine at La Vinya del Senyor; dancing at Otto Zutz.

Walks—La Rambla, the Barri Gotic and the Born; along the waterfront; Montjuic; Park Guell; Collserola woodlands.

Especially for Kids—Zoo de Barcelona; a ride on the roller coaster at Parc d'Atraccions del Tibidabo; the CosmoCaixa science museum.

Geography

Barcelona is a large city with many districts, but the most popular attractions are found in a handful of areas that, for the most part, flow into one another. Beginning on the waterfront, Port Vell (Old Port) encompasses the harbor area and Barceloneta, a neighborhood that was once home to fishermen and has been renovated. The Vila Olimpica (Olympic Village) lies just east of Port Vell; it has its own marina and dozens of bars, restaurants and night clubs. The Old Port, too, has undergone extensive renovation in the past decade or so and is now the city's seaside recreation area.

La Rambla, Barcelona's famous boulevard and almost a district unto itself, begins at Port Vell and extends inland to Placa Catalunya. La Rambla is the heart of the central city, and it forms the boundary between El Raval, the neighborhood to the west of the boulevard, and the Barri Gotic (the Gothic Quarter), which lies to the east.

The Barri Gotic, the oldest part of Barcelona, has many bars, restaurants, museums and historic sites. Adjoining it on the east side of Via Laietana are the old quarters of Sant Pere and La Ribera, with its fine medieval mansions and trendy shopping and nightlife around the old Born market (now closed to shoppers but preserved as a historic site).

Continuing inland from the Barri Gotic, you'll enter the Eixample, an upscale shopping and residential area, crisscrossed by wide avenues, where many of the modernisme buildings are located. Adjoining it to the northwest is the chic villagelike district of Gracia, which has many pleasant restaurants and eclectic shops and galleries. Beyond Gracia, the city climbs the lower slope of Mount Tibidabo.

Montjuic, a prominent castle-topped hill covered with parks, gardens and pathways west of Port Vell, is easily visible from the central city. Museums and other attractions are found on this high ground.

The renovated district of Poblenu is more detached from the other areas and is found on the beachfront farther to the east at the end of the T5 tram line.

History

As with many places in Europe, Barcelona's history has much to do with invasions and conquest. The Romans founded the original settlement, named Barcino, in 133 BC, and the town was later held by the Visigoths, the Moors and the Christian Carolingian Empire under Charlemagne's son, Louis the Pious. In AD 988, Barcelona won independence from the Carolingian kings and became the dominant political and military force in the region of northeastern Spain later known as Catalonia—or Catalunya, in the native Catalan tongue. (Much of the city's character stems from the fact that it identifies itself more as part of Catalonia than of Spain.)

By the late 1400s, Catalonia was politically linked with other regions of Spain, but the region continued to enjoy autonomous rights and privileges until the early 1700s. That changed after the War of Succession, when Catalonia backed the losing side led by Archduke Charles of Austria. Spain's King Philip V abolished Catalonia's government and laws and made Castilian (Spanish) the language of official business, rather than Catalan. This was but one of many conflicts between Catalonia and the central authority of Spain.

By the late 1800s, Barcelona had become one of Spain's most industrialized areas, and the factories spawned significant wealth and a dynamic middle class. Industrial profits underwrote the modernisme movement in architecture—Barcelona's version of art nouveau that was spearheaded by architect Antoni Gaudi. The industrial riches did not trickle down to the working class, however, and radical movements—especially anarchism—found willing converts in the city's poorer districts. A violent uprising in 1909 was a precursor to the upheaval unleashed by the Spanish Civil War in the late 1930s, when Barcelona was ruled by leftist trade unions for several years. The city remained a stronghold of the losing Republican cause until the end of the war and paid the price afterward. During the long reign of Francisco Franco (1939-75) the Catalan identity and language were viciously suppressed.

Catalonian home rule was restored after Franco's death in 1975, and the Catalan language was declared co-official with Castilian. Beginning in the late 1970s, a forward-looking urban policy was adopted in Barcelona, and the regeneration reached its peak in preparation for the 1992 Summer Olympics. Since then, its popularity as a tourist and recreation center has continued to grow.

Politically, the city and region have become increasingly detached from Madrid's centralist rule; in 2010, more than a million Catalans demonstrated in favor of independence from the rest of Spain. That same year their official abolition of bullfighting—effective from 2012—was in effect a further rejection of deep-rooted Spanish traditions.

In the municipal elections of 2015, the Barcelona en Comu platform won, led by Ada Colau, who was named mayor. Colau was in favor of more social policies and fighting against corruption.

In October 2017 the Generalitat organized an illegal referendum on independence and there were altercations stopped by the police. Some politicians were arrested and are currently in jail while the trial is being held. These events lent a negative image to Barcelona and Spain at large: Many companies changed their headquarters to other Spanish cities, and tourism was affected.

In the municipal elections of May 2019, there was a tie between Barcelona en Comu and Esquerra Republicana de Catalunya, both with ten councilors. Ada Colau was re-elected mayor after reaching a government pact with the Socialist Party.

Potpourri

Under Franco's regime, Catalan was forbidden in all forms—printed, written or taught. Now the city offers free courses to anyone who would like to learn it.

Although Antoni Gaudi created some of the most extravagant buildings ever made, he was a humble and religious man who rejected vanity in all its forms. When he was struck down by a tram in 1926, his clothes were so shabby that police assumed he was a vagrant. He died three days later in a hospital in the dilapidated Barri Xino district.

It has been estimated that to build the central spire of the Sagrada Familia, which will rise 560 ft/171 m high, the subterranean pylons would have to weigh 8,000 tons each for it to withstand an earthquake or gale-force winds of 100 mph/161 kph.

Barcelona's colorful Fiesta de Sant Medir, held in the Gracia district in early March and dating from Roman times, honors Saint Emeterio, or Sant Medir, the patron saint of broad beans. During the festivities, thousands of sweets are handed out to delighted children.

The name of Mount Tibidabo comes from the story of Christ's wanderings in the wilderness, when the Devil took him to a mountaintop and offered to give him all that he could see if Jesus would fall down and worship him. Tibi dabo means "I will give to you" in Latin.

The stadium on Montjuic, called Estadi Olympic, was intended to host the People's Olympics in 1936, but Franco's coup the day before the scheduled opening kicked off the Spanish Civil War and put an end to the games. Catalans had to wait till 1992 when, in the newly refurbished stadium, Montjuic hosted the Summer Olympic Games that made Barcelona internationally famous.

Location

Barcelona is an important stopping-off point for major cruise lines in the Mediterranean, and even the largest ocean liners can dock in its port.

Barcelona's port has nine international passenger terminals clustered around Port Vell, the Old Port district at the foot of La Rambla, minutes away from the city's most important tourist attractions. These terminals are the busiest and most modern in the Mediterranean, offering many services, including currency exchange, duty-free shops, restaurants, internet access points, bus stops and taxi ranks.

Large ferries connect the city to the Balearic Islands and all of the major Mediterranean ports. Phone 902-222-858. http://www.apb.es.

Shore Excursions

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Introduction

Bardstown, Kentucky, located 60 mi/97 km southwest of Lexington, claims to be the bourbon capital of the world. In fact, the whole area figures prominently in the whiskey business.

Heaven Hill Distillery's Bourbon Heritage Center in Bardstown is a museumlike center that includes a film about bourbon-making as well as displays and exhibits featuring antique stills and other equipment. https://heavenhilldistillery.com/bourbon-heritage-center.php.

In addition to Heaven Hill distillery in Bardstown itself, there's Jim Beam's American Stillhouse in Clermont (https://www.jimbeam.com/visit-us) and Maker's Mark Distillery, a National Historic Landmark, in Loretto. Maker's Mark is a picturesque distillery where you can try dipping a bottle in the signature red wax (https://www.makersmark.com/distillery). Other local distilleries include Barton 1792 and Willett. All offer free tours.

You'll discover interesting lore about the liquor at the Oscar Getz Museum of Whiskey History in Bardstown (https://www.oscargetzwhiskeymuseum.com). Appropriately enough, the town hosts the Kentucky Bourbon Festival in September. https://kybourbonfestival.com.

Bardstown is also home to a historic stagecoach stop, the Old Talbott Tavern, which is still serving great southern food. It counts Abraham Lincoln and Jesse James among its guests (http://www.talbotts.com). The Civil War Museum in Old Bardstown Village focuses on battles in Kentucky and other parts of the war's western theater. These events are often overlooked but were crucial to the outcome of the war. https://bardstownmuseumrow.org.

Also worth seeing are St. Joseph's Proto Cathedral (the first Catholic cathedral west of the Appalachians), the Old County Jail and Jailer's Inn (built in 1819), impressive Wickland Mansion and My Old Kentucky Home State Park, site of the mansion that inspired Stephen Foster's famous song. Foster is the focus of the outdoor summer show Stephen Foster—The Musical, which is staged June-August at the park.

Train buffs will want to honor legendary engineer Casey Jones (a Kentucky native) with a visit to the Kentucky Railway Museum in New Haven, near Bardstown (https://www.kyrail.org). My Old Kentucky Dinner Train, which departs from the train depot in Bardstown, lets riders experience a two-hour ride in 1940s dining cars. https://www.kydinnertrain.com.

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Bari, Italy, is part of Puglia, which forms the heel of the Italian "boot" on the Adriatic coast about 300 mi/485 km southeast of Rome.

The city is divided into medieval and modern sections and provides enough to make a two-night visit rewarding, although most tourists pass through on their way to ferries for Croatia and Greece.

Among the sights are the 12th-century cathedral and museum; the impressive Swabian castle, Castello Svevo (a conglomeration of Roman and Norman fortifications, topped off with 16th-century towers); and the 11th-century Basilica of San Nicola (the final resting place for the bones of St. Nicholas, alias "Father Christmas"). Spend time walking the intriguing narrow streets of the medieval section, Bari Vecchia.

Not far away are two other attractions. The Castellana Grottoes are a large network of limestone caves, 30 mi/48 km south. Tours are available, although the weather determines whether the grottoes are open in winter.

The odd trulli dwellings—ancient, seemingly enchanted, dazzling-white buildings with conical, stone roofs—are clustered in the village of Alberobello, just a few miles/kilometers farther south of Castellana. The design of these houses is unique to Puglia and cannot be traced to any other architectural tradition. Visit the Monti district for the best view—it has more than 1,000 whitewashed trulli topped with roofs of dark gray stone.

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One of the must-see sights in Argentina is the lakeside ski-resort town of San Carlos de Bariloche, generally known as Bariloche. This Andean village looks like it belongs in Switzerland, even though it's 830 mi/1,335 km southwest of Buenos Aires. Like a Swiss ski resort, Bariloche can be quite crowded—and phenomenally expensive—in high season (though it's a bit run-down in comparison with its European counterparts). Its popularity with Brazilian tourists has earned it the nickname "Braziloche."

It's easy to see why so many people go: The area, on the shores of Lake Nahuel Huapi, in the midst of Nahuel Huapi National Park, is unbelievably beautiful. Bariloche is surrounded by dense forests, alpine lakes and 12,000-ft/3,660-m mountains that are snowcapped most of the year.

Bariloche itself is filled with Swiss chalet-type hotels and has a number of sights worth seeing, including a small museum with displays about the area's founder, Francisco Moreno (Museo de la Patagonia; http://www.museodelapatagonia.nahuelhuapi.gov.ar); it also has information about the indigenous population and the early settlements. But our favorite activities (and everyone else's) can be found on the main street and the slopes—shopping and skiing. Skiing sometimes starts in June at Cerro Catedral, 12 mi/20 km from town and named for its cathedral-like spires, but the best time to hit the slopes is July-October.

Shopping is a year-round activity. You can sample some of the many varieties of jellies and jams made from native fruits found nowhere else in the world—each day you're there, stop in a different chocolate shop or see whose version of the local specialty, papas de Bariloche, you like best.

During the warm months, you can fish for salmon in clear mountain streams, take a boat ride to pretty Isla Victoria (to see pudu deer) or take in a great view from atop Otto Hill (reached by aerial gondolas). Other impressive sights are towering Mount Tronador (a great climb in summer) and the nearby black glacier field.

A trip to Bariloche can be combined with an excursion to Chile. If traveling by car, try to take a tour that overnights along the way—a nonstop trip to Puerto Montt, Chile, is complicated and tiring (although feasible). Alternatively, a trip from Bariloche to Puerto Blest can be made by boat (past waterfalls), by bus, by boat again, then by bus again through some of the most beautiful, peaceful scenery in South America, including dormant volcanoes and milky green water. It's not to be missed. We especially enjoyed the all-day boat and bus trip across Lago Nahuel Huapi. (Keep your eyes open for condors carrying food to their nests in the cliffs overhead.)

Other ski resorts in the Argentine Andes include Mendoza, Villavicencio and Las Lenas. Villavicencio has very good facilities, is in a beautiful setting and is near some interesting ruins. Valle de Las Lenas is a world-class resort with excellent powder skiing.

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Located 470 mi/755 km northeast of Vancouver, Barkerville, British Columbia, is a restored 1870s gold-rush town that re-creates the Old West. Of the 142 buildings, 52 are originals and the rest impressive reconstructions. It's no surprise that several westerns have been filmed there. Shops, restaurants, music and performances at the Theatre Royal add to the fun. Most people visiting Barkerville stay in nearby Wells.

To the east lies Bowron Lake Provincial Park, with a world-famous 72-mi/116-km canoe circuit that requires 7-10 days to navigate (canoeists should be prepared to camp in adverse weather conditions). Reservations are required—park officials set a daily limit of 50 canoe departures. There are a number of campgrounds in the park. This is a good place to see moose and grizzly bears.

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Located in scenic South Australia, just an hour outside of Adelaide, the Barossa Valley is Australia's best-known wine region. It has been producing wine for more than 150 years.

Today, the Barossa Valley is home to around 150 wineries, with more than 60 cellar doors open to the public. That doesn't mean it's overrun with tourists, though. Rather, a trip there feels like traveling back in time to 1970s Napa or even Bordeaux in the 1950s—combining the best of unspoiled natural beauty with sophisticated international sensibility.

Thanks to a warm climate and a long growing season, The Barossa has become world-renowned for its inimitable Shiraz, but it also produces a plethora of other popular varietals including chardonnay, semillon, grenache and cabernet sauvignon, so even the pickiest wine connoisseur will find something quaffable.

A self-drive tour of the Barossa is very plausible, and the towns that comprise the region (most notably Angaston, Nuriootpa and Tanunda) are all within an easy distance of each other, but travelers on a limited schedule should consider booking a private tour.

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Barra Honda National Park, a small park 110 mi/175 km northwest of San Jose on the Nicoya Peninsula, protects the flora and fauna of the tropical dry forest and has an extensive network of caves. You can hire local guides to lead you through the caverns, but the descent into the darkness—using a climbing ladder and ropes—is not for the fainthearted.

The hike takes an energetic hour over a winding and, in places, steep trail. Several trails in the park lead through the forest to scenic overlooks, which give tired hikers a minute to rest while they get their cameras out.

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Barranquilla, Colombia's main seaport, is a bustling, chaotic city of 2 million people, 435 mi/700 km north of Bogota. It is located on the west bank of the Magdalena River, near where it empties into the Caribbean Sea after crossing most of the country south to north.

Barranquilla is best-known for its fabulous Carnival, one of the best in South America. It is held the four days before Ash Wednesday. It kicks off with the Batalla de Flores, a colorful procession along the Via 40 (between calles 83 and 40) on Saturday, which is continued on Sunday. If you don't want to mix with the partying people, you can watch the spectacle from platforms along the Via 40, which are called palcos.

The Festival de las Orquestras takes place on Monday and Tuesday at the baseball stadium. On Tuesday at midnight, Joselito Carnaval, a personified symbol of the Carnival, is buried. It's sometimes rough, but not unsafe fun. Only carry the money you might need for the evening and you should be fine. If you party with the people, expect water and corn flour (often a sticky mix of both) to be thrown at you, so don't wear your best clothes. There are lots of concerts and dancing events with great music. http://www.carnavaldebarranquilla.org.

If you are in town at other times, you can visit the Museo del Caribe, a superb museum dedicated to Caribbean cultures; the Museo del Carnival, which presents the history of Carnival; the zoo (http://www.zoobaq.org); and the remarkable modern Catedral Metropolitano.

On El Prado, between Calle 50 and Carretera 55, you can see some beautifully renovated mansions. In general, the city is humid, loud and seething with people—not worth going out of your way to see.

The city is divided into the clean, modern, vibrant, nonthreatening and affluent northern zone, north of the Museo del Caribe; and the filthy and unsafe lower-class southern half, which should be avoided.

Near Barranquilla is Isla de Salamanca, which has a well-protected mango swamp.

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Barre (pronounced BARE-ee) was known as the "Granite Capital of the World" during the 1800s. The downtown of this small city 35 mi/55 km southeast of Burlington still stands as one of the finest collections of granite buildings in New England, and Hope Cemetery has one of the most incredible displays of granite memorial statuary in the U.S.

Visit the Barre Museum, located in the Aldrich Library, which has exhibits depicting local history. Also, take a look at the impressive 19th-century Barre Opera House, or attend a concert or play there.

Just outside of town, in Graniteville, you can visit the Rock of Ages granite quarries. The guided tour takes you from the blasting of the quarry walls to the polishing of the heavy blocks of stone.

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A protected rain forest since 1923, and one of the world's first, Barro Colorado, Panama, is located 30 mi/50 km northwest of Panama City. It is the largest island (6 sq mi/15 sq km) in Gatun Lake, a man-made body of water created during construction of the Panama Canal.

Barro Colorado is managed by the Smithsonian Tropical Research Institute as a biological reserve and is recognized as the leading natural laboratory in the world for the study of tropical biology. STRI offers limited tours of the island, where agoutis, monkeys and other creatures can be seen. It can be visited by reservation only. Book as far in advance as possible. The trails are steep and tough going in places and not suitable to travelers with infirmities. Phone 212-8026. https://stri.si.edu.

A 45-minute boat ride along the canal from the small town of Gamboa takes you to Wheeler Cove on Barro Colorado, where you can observe the flora and fauna from the comfort of the boat. After landing on the island, an easy walk along the 2-mi/3-km Cima nature trail shows you the incredible diversity of bird, insect and plant life that thrives there. Look for howler monkeys, toucans and slaty-tailed trogons.

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North America's northernmost settlement, Barrow, Alaska, lies on the state's northern coast 750 mi/1,207 km north of Anchorage, 500 mi/800 km north of Fairbanks, 320 mi/515 km north of the Arctic Circle and overlooking the Arctic Ocean.

Barrow has the country's longest day (starting around 10 May, the sun is visible for nearly three months) and longest night (nearly three months of darkness starting around 18 November). Visitors to Barrow have remarked that the sky is permanently gray, the roads are muddy and the architecture is plain.

Most visitors to Barrow take a quick day tour from Anchorage or Fairbanks—it allows them to say that they crossed the Arctic Circle. We prefer an overnight trip (though food and lodging are expensive).

Most tours include a chance to watch Inupiat dancing, drumming and singing, followed by a perfunctory blanket toss. Be sure to go to the Inupiat Heritage Center and Museum, which provides a historical and cultural perspective on the people of this area. It is a state-of-the-art facility with thoughtful exhibits on whaling, subsistence activities and more. Native subsistence living plays a large part in the town's native community and includes whaling, fishing and hunting.

There isn't much else to do in Barrow, but a walk around town gives you a chance to see the remains of old whalebone-and-sod houses, whalebone arches, treeless tundra and Arctic Ocean shore ice. And be on the lookout for polar bears wandering through town.

If you go in winter, take your warmest outerwear. Barrow is technically a desert, but it gets about 15 in/38 cm of snow each year. The "warm" desert weather means 30-40 degrees F/-1 to -4 C. Winter temperatures drop to -50 F/-45 C. Adventurous travelers who don't mind the cold will find Barrow a pleasant place to visit.

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Bartlesville, located 125 mi/200 km northeast of Oklahoma City, is the site of the first commercial oil well in Oklahoma, as well as the restored 26-room mansion of Frank Phillips, founder of Phillips Petroleum. Also in the town is Frank Lloyd Wright's Price Tower, a cantilevered 19-story building that Wright described as "the tree that escaped the crowded forest."

Price Tower, built in 1956, was Wright's pioneering experiment in multiuse structures. After being used mostly as office space for many years, the tower has re-emerged as a multipurpose building, and visitors now have a chance to fully experience Wright design. The Inn at Price Tower has 21 rooms decorated in Wright's style; the tower's Arts Center hosts exhibits of American artists. The restaurant, the Copper, is a popular dining spot with good views of the sunset.

While you're in the area, visit Woolaroc Museum and Wildlife Preserve, Phillips' hunting lodge (the name came from WOOds-LAkes-ROCks) and 3,500-acre/1,400-hectare wildlife refuge, which is 15 mi/25 km southwest of town. The property is home to a variety of wild animals, including a bison herd. The museum contains exhibits about the development of the Southwest, a large gun collection, and works by Charles M. Russell and many Native American artists. https://www.woolaroc.org.

Pawhuska, a 20-mi/32-km drive west of Bartlesville, is the capital of the Osage Nation, which grew wealthy when oil was found on its lands in the 1920s. The town has a historic district with buildings from the late 1800s, and there are two museums: The Osage County Historical Society Museum and the excellent Osage Tribal Museum.

A drive through the 36,000-acre-/14,580-hectare Tallgrass Prairie Preserve, which lies north of Pawhuska, allows visitors to glimpse the plant and animal species native to the prairie, including bison and wild turkeys.

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One of the smallest islands, Bartolome is also one of the most visited. That's because it is a short distance from Santiago Island and one of the few places where visitors can see the Galapagos penguins. It also has a hiking trail that leads to a volcanic peak offering spectacular views of the islands.

Hikers can observe the volcanic history of the island—different types of lava flows, as well as pioneer plants that have begun to grow amid the barren rocks. The hike takes less than an hour and includes climbing wooden steps installed to prevent further erosion. From the top, hikers can see Pinnacle Rock, which resembles a craggy black finger pointing to the sky. The panoramic view from the volcano is one of the most famous and most photographed in the archipelago.

Most tours include a stop at the beach near Pinnacle Rock to swim and view the penguins, which are the only species of penguin north of the equator. Although they are small, they are extremely fast underwater. Snorkeling around the rock is a good way to view whitetip reef sharks, colorful fish and sea turtles.

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The undisputed windsurfing and kiteboarding capital of the Caribbean, Cabarete, Dominican Republic, a pleasant and vibrant north-coast resort, is also the Dominican Republic's liveliest resort by night. It draws a more eclectic crowd than other resorts, including a large contingent of backpackers and budget travelers.

Dozens of laid-back bars and restaurants spill shoulder to shoulder onto the main beach, which is one of four. Many hotels are dedicated to the extreme sports trade, and there are comparatively few all-inclusive resorts. The town is famous for its nightlife, but suffered greatly following passage of an executive order forcing most bars to close at midnight. The law was later rescinded, but the damage was done.

Parque El Choco, immediately inland of Cabarete, is centered on Laguna Cabarete and offers nature hikes, fabulous birding and caverns with pre-Columbian pictographs. To the visit the caves, a guide can be hired on-site for about RD$900. The Cordillera Septentrional mountains, inland, offer opportunities for mountain biking and other active adventures.

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Calabar, Nigeria, is one of the country's oldest trading cities, and a place where few tourists go. It's a pity, as Calabar is one of our favorite places in Nigeria. Set on a hill overlooking the Calabar River, it is as picturesque as the country gets, and it has a friendly, relaxing atmosphere. The Calabar Museum, established in the old British Residency, has an excellent and large exhibit on the region's history, including slavery and the precolonial period.

Calabar is also the location of two interesting and worthwhile primate protection projects that can be visited. The Calabar Drill Ranch rescues and takes care of endangered drill monkeys and chimpanzees, and the Cercopan Center cares for a number of guenon and mangabey monkeys.

The nearby town of Oron, Nigeria, is accessible by ferry, and has another interesting museum filled with masks, puppets and funerary art. If you don't want to spend your entire day indoors, visit the Botanic Garden or take a side trip to the Oban Hills or Kwa Falls on the edge of the Cross River National Park.

Another reason to visit Calabar is the enormous shopping complex near the port to the north of the city. It is a duty-free zone that attracts shoppers from across West Africa. 355 mi/570 km east of Lagos.

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Positioned as a guardian for the inner waters of New Zealand's Hauraki Gulf, Great Barrier Island is 55 mi/90 km from downtown Auckland, a 30-minute flight or nearly five hours by ferry. Fullers Ferries operates a faster, passenger-only service in summer months, which brings the trip down to two hours. The island gets busy December-early January, but it's quiet for the rest of the year. Given its proximity to Auckland, it's a convenient option for those wanting a real out-of-the-way New Zealand experience. You'll find that Great Barrier Islanders are a special breed, and they still see themselves as separate from mainland New Zealand.

Cars can be rented on the island, and accommodation options are plentiful and varied—from rustic campsites to luxury lodges and everything in between. Activities include swimming, hiking, fishing, bird-watching, and viewing natural hot pools in the forest and old whaling stations. The Barrier Island's beaches boast white sand, rolling surf and sheltered bays—and it's easy to find a whole stretch of coast to enjoy all to yourself.

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Extending nearly 1,200 mi/2,000 km along Australia's northeast coast, the Great Barrier Reef is one of the world's most magnificent coral reefs. The colorful outcroppings of coral and the abundance of other sea life, along with the clarity of the water, make the area a must-visit. The reef and the islands between it and the mainland are incredible places to sail, snorkel, dive, and ride in glass-bottomed boats and semisubmersible craft.

The reef begins in southern Queensland about 185 mi/300 km off the coast of Bundaberg and Gladstone. It runs parallel to the mainland as far north as the tip of Cape York, where the reef almost touches land. The lagoon between the reef and the coast includes several thousand small reefs, as well as more than 600 islands. Only about 20 of the islands have resorts, but you can camp at some of the other small islands, although access, unless you are sailing in a yacht, is difficult.

The cyclone (hurricane) season is November-April and can create localized havoc. There are normally a few incidents each season and every few years, they can be destructive.

The easiest way to explore the reef is on day trips from Townsville, Cairns, Port Douglas and a few other places along the coast. Tour companies are everywhere and offer a variety of tours. Travelers should be aware, however, that after travel time is subtracted, a day trip leaves only about three or so hours for snorkeling and diving.

Most operators offer a scuba experience for noncertified divers. They'll give you a quick lesson and take you down to see what you're missing. Boats range from large, comfortable catamarans to small, intimate yachts. Budget-priced excursions also abound, but some boats are slower and offer fewer services and possibly a noisy, crowded trip.

Experienced divers should spend several nights aboard a dive boat. You can see more of the reef if you travel north of Cairns to the Coral Sea (the Yongala Wreck and the Cod Hole are two popular dive spots).

Another option is to stay on one of the coral islands near the reef. Several offer overnight accommodations and operate a variety of boat, air or helicopter services for viewing coral areas and fish.

The other resort islands are high or continental islands, which are actually the tops of submerged mountains. They are located at varying distances from the outer reef. You can stay on one of them and take day trips by boat to the outer reef.

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The ancient Black Sea fishing port of Nessebar, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, was built on an island connected to the mainland by a narrow causeway, situated at the southern end of Sunny Beach. It is often referred to as "The Pearl of the Black Sea" for its rich cultural history and beautiful setting.

The town has two main parts: a highly-developed tourist section at the end of Sunny Beach with lovely beaches, water parks and resorts, and the old historic section, set on the island, with magnificent Byzantine and medieval architecture.

The resorts draw large crowds in the summer, but they are worth enduring (or visit during the quiet season) in order to see the monasteries and churches with their wonderful frescoes, paintings and sculptures. The small, colorful boats floating near the narrow quays and worn, ancient walls along the old quarter's waterfront are very photogenic.

The historic houses in Nessebar are quite interesting—the ground-floor walls are constructed of large stones, and the second stories are of wood. The architectural style is known as Bulgarian National Revival, a distinctly Bulgarian form that developed in the 19th century.

Some people visit Nessebar on a day trip from Bourgas, about 25 mi/40 km away, but an overnight stay is suggested.

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One of New Jersey's most interesting natural areas is the Pine Barrens, the largest tract of preserved open space between Washington, D.C., and Boston, covering some 1.1 million acres, or 22% of the state's land area, with an enormous underground aquifer that could easily serve all the water needs of New York City. The area includes state forests, cranberry bogs and several varieties of rare orchids. (In an unusual ecological twist, the Pine Barrens has dwarf forests in which the trees, including scrub oaks and pitch pines, grow to an average of only 5 ft/1.5 m. The reason for their stunted size isn't clear.) The area is also reputed to be the home of the legendary Jersey Devil, a winged creature said to emit an unearthly screech and to possess characteristics of various animals. Jersey Devil sightings are an intrinsic part of local lore and have been documented in a number of books.

A favorite attraction for Pine Barrens visitors is Batsto Village, a restored ironworks community near Hammonton. At Whitesbog Village, near Browns Mills, you can also visit cranberry bogs and learn about the history of the area's cranberry and blueberry industries. Nature lovers will find the preserve an ideal place for hiking and camping, the highlight for hikers being the 50-mi/80-km Batona Trail, which runs from Ong's Hat in the Brendan T. Byrne (formerly Lebanon) State Forest through Batsto and Wharton State Forest and into Bass River State Forest. Canoeing is also possible on the Mullica, Wading and Oswego rivers. (Pineland Adventures allows you to examine the natural wonders of the Batso River up close.) The best times to go canoeing in the Pine Barrens are the spring and fall. And for a real taste of "Piney" life, stop at Buzby's General Store before or after your canoe trip. To learn more about the Pine Barrens' unique culture ecology, read John McPhee's excellent book The Pine Barrens. The Pine Barrens begins approximately 70 mi/115 km south of Newark.

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Known as the American Riviera, Santa Barbara, California, is all about the outdoors. The weather is comfortable year-round, and visitors as well as residents can ride bikes, walk along the beach or take lazy drives into the hills or through the outlying vineyards.

Located north of Los Angeles, Santa Barbara has been a celebrity hideaway since the early 1900s, with the carefree attitude and architecture of a Mediterranean village and the sunny, relaxed disposition of a California beach town. As you bicycle along the Santa Barbara waterfront, you'll see why this seaside city is a special place. With the exception of recurrent morning fog, clear, blue skies shine over golden beaches, and the arid Santa Ynez Mountains loom over the city's signature white-stucco buildings with red-tile roofs. Joggers smile, beach volleyball players wave, and brown pelicans flap their wings methodically as they fly overhead.

In addition to its picturesque waterfront and abundant attractions, including the well-known Santa Barbara mission, the city offers museums, trendy restaurants and boutiques. But there's plenty more to see and do in the area. Montecito to the east is the place for exclusive shopping—it's often compared to LA's Rodeo Drive. To the west are Isla Vista and the lively campus of the University of California Santa Barbara. To the north are Santa Maria and the Santa Ynez Valley, where you'll find dozens of wineries as well as the old-time Danish town of Solvang.

Must See or Do

Sights—Stearns Wharf; Santa Barbara County Courthouse; Old Mission Santa Barbara; Lotusland.

Museums—Santa Barbara Museum of Art; the Santa Barbara Museum of Natural History; Santa Barbara Historical Museum; Karpeles Manuscript Library and Museum; the Santa Barbara Botanic Garden.

Memorable Meals—Huevos rancheros at Chad's Cafe; clam chowder at Brophy Brothers; fish tacos at Shoreline Beach Cafe; French Onion soup at Bouchon Santa Barbara.

Late Night—The bars and clubs along lower State Street; live music at SOhO Restaurant & Music Club; Cava in Montecito.

Walks—To the end of Stearns Wharf and back; along the waterfront between the harbor and Montecito; the Historic Red Tile Walking Tour downtown.

Especially for Kids—The interactive exhibits at the Maritime Museum; the skateboard park along the waterfront; the antique carousel in Chase Palm Park; the Santa Barbara Zoo.

Geography

Sandwiched between the Pacific Ocean and the Santa Ynez Mountains, Santa Barbara boasts a stunning setting. Sandy beaches and rocky coves stretch along one side, and the vineyard-draped peaks of the mountains rise less than an hour's drive away. Because of the shape of the coastline, the beaches actually face south, and the mountains rise to the north. This sometimes makes directions a bit confusing for visitors, who expect the coast to be due west, as it is in most of the state.

The city of Santa Barbara is laid out in a grid, with nearly all north and south streets dead-ending into Cabrillo Boulevard, the main thoroughfare flanking the waterfront promenade. State Street, the main north-south street, begins at Cabrillo across from Stearns Wharf, bisecting the city into the east and west sides. Most of the city's main attractions, as well as numerous shops and restaurants, are within a few blocks of State Street.

Lately, the 10-block State Street pedestrian promenade is closed to traffic adding a European feel to the city and permitting more outdoor space for cafes, shops and festivals. The city is looking into how to make the pedestrian area a permanent feature. Adjacent dining streets are popping up as a result of the increased foot traffic including Victoria Street, Coast Village Road near Montecito and the Funk Zone. State Street Promenade Market takes place every Thursday with local businesses and restaurants setting up for pedestrians to peruse.

The central part of the city can easily be explored on foot or by hopping on and off the trolleys. You will need transportation or a tour to visit Montecito (home of well-known personalities such as Oprah Winfrey and Prince Harry) and to go wine tasting in the hills.

Highway 101 and the Pacific Highway connect the city to Los Angeles, which is about 90 mi/145 km south, and San Francisco, which is 330 mi/530 km north of Santa Barbara.

History

The Chumash peoples made their homes along the Santa Barbara coast (and the Channel Islands) for about 13,000 years before the Portuguese explorer Joao Cabriho (Spanish name: Juan Cabrillo) claimed the area for Spain in 1542. The oldest human skeleton found in North America was discovered on Santa Rosa Island, about 30 mi/48 km from downtown Santa Barbara.

After Cabriho's landing, a group seeking shelter there on the feast day of St. Barbara named the area after her when they survived a fierce storm. European settlement began in earnest when Father Junipero Serra, traveling with the Spanish army, established a royal presidio in 1782. The mission was founded four years later, although a large earthquake in 1812 destroyed it and most of the town. A larger mission was built in 1820 with its bell tower completed in 1833.

Spanish rule ended in 1822, when Mexico took over briefly until Col. John C. Fremont claimed the region for the U.S. in 1846.

By the late 1800s, the area's reputation as a pleasant place to live had spread among California's rich and famous, and Victorian homes began to outnumber Spanish Colonials. The Gold Rush of 1849 brought even more people, and the area saw a surge in population. After an earthquake leveled buildings in 1925, city leaders decreed the town would be rebuilt in the Spanish-Mediterranean style of whitewashed adobe structures with red-tile roofs that continues today.

Stearns Wharf was built in the late 1800s, making it easy for steamboats to dock in Santa Barbara. The railroad to Los Angeles was completed in 1887, and the railroad connecting the city to San Francisco was completed in 1901. It was also around that time that city leaders decided to make the beaches public; therefore, you won't see any hotels or motels built on Santa Barbara's sands. The first electric street car line was opened in 1896.

The oil industry further changed the town. Oil had been seeping out of the ground for centuries, but its value was only discovered in the late 19th century. Summerland Oil Field, the world's first offshore oil well was built in the 1890s. It was mostly depleted by 1910, but the derricks remained until the 1920s, and the field remained partially in production until 1940. However, larger offshore oil derricks were built throughout the 1950s and '60s. A huge oil spill in 1969 at the Dos Cuadras Offshore Oil Field created one of the first modern environmental oil hazards, created a backlash against offshore drilling in the area, and led to national and state laws limiting drilling.

In the 1970s, the Santa Barbara city council passed a resolution limiting the city's population to 85,000 through zoning. This prevented new development and urban sprawl, but caused housing prices to soar. The unintended consequence of limiting growth in the city was a huge commuter population.

The area has been attracting Hollywood refugees since the early 1900s, when a film company opened a studio there. Since then, the area has been home to such legends as Charlie Chaplin (who built the Montecito Inn in 1928 largely for film casts and crews), as well as Kirk Douglas, Ellen DeGeneres, Kevin Costner, Jennifer Aniston, Jennifer Lopez and Oprah Winfrey.

Potpourri

Santa Barbara City College, one of the country's most beautiful campuses, overlooks the harbor, West Beach and the scenic Cabrillo beach walk. Stroll along meandering cliffside paths or prepare a sunset picnic and sprawl out on the green lawn, taking in views of the Pacific.

The Santa Barbara Botanic Garden stretches across a 78-acre/32-hectare estate and is home to more than 1,000 types of native California plants along 5 mi/8 km of walking trails.

The oozing Santa Barbara Channel tar seep is one of the largest and messiest of its kind in the world, second only to the one in the Caspian Sea. Up to 150 barrels of stinking, sticky crude gurgle up to the surface every day. Though only a small portion of that tar makes its way onto the city's beaches, romantic beach strolls can occasionally resemble a walk through a mine field of natural tar. If you find yourself coming into contact with tar, Vaseline, olive oil or gasoline can get the gunk off.

Carrillo Street, one of the major roads in the city, was named for the Carrillo family. Jose Raimundo Carrillo was captain of the Presidio, and his son, Carlos Antonio Carrillo, was the governor of California in 1837. Two other downtown Highway 101 exits have similar names—Cabrillo Boulevard and Castillo Street—so listen carefully when getting verbal directions from a local.

Southern Pacific Railroad's tracks were built long before the city's hotels and high-end homes, and the ubiquitous noisy trains running along the shore do not discriminate; they rattle both visitors and residents out of bed day and night. This is a frequent complaint, even at the area's most exclusive resorts.

Before Hollywood and Los Angeles stole its glitter, Santa Barbara was home to the largest film studio in the world, the Flying A Studios, during the silent film era. It was also the scene for such major movies as DeMille's The Ten Commandments and W.C. Fields' The Bank Dick.

The downtown farmers market has been a vibrant part of Santa Barbara's social scene since the 1970s, before "green" and "local" became fashion. Far more than just a place to shop, it's an opportunity to meet locals and talk to growers from across Santa Barbara County. The late celebrity chef Julia Child was seen there regularly.

Location

Shore Excursions

Overview

Introduction

A luxuriant villa and an immaculate beach. Leisurely dinners alongside movie stars and supermodels. A vacation could be worse.

But wanting a vacation on St. Barthelemy and having one are different things. This island's beauty, luxury and exclusive company come with a steep price tag. And should you have what it takes for a holiday on St. Barthelemy, a word of warning: If you are lucky enough to recognize a celebrity behind a pair of sunglasses, don't expect to collect an autograph. Those breaking the island's law of studied nonchalance will likely be deported.

St. Barthelemy (better known as St. Barts or St. Barth) first came into the spotlight back in the 1950s when David Rockefeller and a few other prosperous individuals built holiday homes there. Slowly but surely, jet-setters from two continents followed suit, and St. Barts was on its way to becoming the fashionable getaway for the rich and the famous.

They don't choose St. Barts for the company, though that's certainly part of the allure: The beaches are secluded, the water is warm, and the landscape of hills and ravines is lovely. The island is sophisticated yet laid-back, with a decidedly French ambience. The people of St. Barts are adept at providing comfort, quiet and security to their well-heeled visitors.

Must See or Do

Sights—The Columbier Lookout Point; the Swedish Clock Tower in Gustavia; Forts Gustaf and Karl.

Museums—Island history and geography at the Musee Municipal de St. Barthelemy (the Wall House Museum) in Gustavia; souvenirs of earlier times at Museum le P'tit Collectionneur, also in Gustavia.

Memorable Meals—Gorgeous food served in a garden oasis at Le Tamarin; fresh seafood at Bonito; a cheeseburger in paradise at Le Select.

Late Night—Baz Bar for tapas, sushi and fun; Casa Club St. Barth for after-hours parting; Le Ti St. Barth for its scantily clad table dancers.

Walks—Around Gustavia for views, churches, shops and historic buildings all swaddled in charm; to the villages of Colombier and Corossol; the goat path down to Anse de Colombier.

Especially for Kids—Painting ceramic items at The Blue Gecko Studio in St. Jean; viewing the underwater world from a semisubmersible.

Geography

History

Christopher Columbus is believed to have sailed by the island in 1493, naming it for his brother Bartholomeo. (Another theory has it that Columbus never saw the island and that later explorers bestowed his brother's name upon the land). The island's strategic position and protected harbor lured determined French settlers beginning in the 1640s.

After the Europeans moved in, Carib Indians found the island more attractive. (Previously, they had avoided the island because it had no fresh water.) The Caribs massacred large numbers of settlers and forced the remaining Europeans to flee the island. The French soon returned, however, and won it back.

In 1784, France traded St. Barts for other interests, making it the only Swedish holding in the Caribbean. It prospered until the 1800s, when a series of natural disasters brought commerce to a halt, and Sweden gave St. Barts back to France in 1878 after island residents voted 251-1 to reunite with France. Remnants of the Swedish legacy can still be seen on the island, however.

Today, St. Barts remains a French holding, and its 7,000 permanent residents are mainly French-speaking descendants of early Norman and Breton settlers. This, plus the historical near-absence of plantation slavery, makes St. Barts a strikingly white island in the Caribbean context. The entirety of the island's population is largely of European descent.

Tourism has become the chief industry. Each year, about 160,000 visitors descend on the island, but local officials take great care to preserve St. Barts' intimate, unspoiled character. Construction is strictly regulated, and the island has concentrated on developing a lucrative but low-volume tourism industry.

Snapshot

St. Barts' foremost activities include beaches, sunbathing, leisurely dining, shopping, boating, windsurfing, diving, snorkeling, relaxing, and seeing and being seen.

Those seeking high-class food and accommodations, relaxed elegance and lovely tropical surroundings will enjoy the island. Also, women can feel free and secure in the absence of male harassment that is sometimes a feature of Caribbean vacations.

Although there are some hot spots for cabaret and dancing, travelers seeking fast-paced nightlife and things to do away from the beach will probably find other Caribbean islands more to their liking. Those on a tight budget, Francophobes and those irritated by lavish lifestyles should steer clear.

Potpourri

St. Barts is the only island in the Caribbean with Swedish connections. Sweden was involved in the trans-Atlantic slave trade and made an additional profit by collecting an export tax on slaves shipped out of St. Barts, which it owned between 1784 and 1878.

The village of Lorient is sister city to Lorient on the southern coast of Brittany. St. Barts itself has twinned with Pitea, Sweden.

A number of island leaders share the last name Magras (pronounced ma-GRAH). They are known as "the Magrasfia." It's not a term of endearment.

Volleyball is the most popular sport on St. Barts, with hundreds of players and tournaments that draw crowds of 500 or more. Both beach and hardcourt games are common.

When locals refer to a case, they're talking about one of the island's original structures, a simple building often capped with a colorful roof or shutters.

St. Barts has no rivers or streams. A desalination plant, rainwater and imported bottled water are the island's only sources. As a result, islanders take water consumption very seriously and frown upon this scarce commodity being wasted.

One of the world's oldest people, Eugenie Blanchard, was born in St. Barts and spent much of her life there. She died in 2010 at the age of 114.

Location

Your first up-close look at St. Barts will be the main town of Gustavia, named for the kings of Sweden. Cruise ships, which are limited to a certain number, tender passengers to the Quai de la Republique in the middle of Gustavia. Shops, restaurants and Shell Beach are all within walking distance, and the beach at St. Jean is a short taxi ride away.

The tourist office, located on Quai du General de Gaulle, is open Monday-Friday 8 am-6 pm, Saturday 8:30 am-noon. Reduced hours in low season. Phone 590-278-727. http://www.saintbarth-tourisme.com.

Shore Excursions

Overview

Introduction

The world-famous group of islands that make up the Zanzibar Archipelago lie roughly 30-45 mi/50-70 km off the coast of Tanzania. Unguja is the real name of the largest and most-visited island, but it is referred to simply as Zanzibar Island. Its appeal is its fantastic exoticness: Stone Town, with its intriguing, winding alleyways, old Arabic houses and heaving port, is steeped in history and full of atmosphere, while Zanzibar's coastlines offer some of the best beaches in the world, which make for dazzling days in the sun.

Once a city-state ruled by sultans, Zanzibar has been as connected to Arabia and other regions along the Indian Ocean as it has been to Africa. For centuries, dhows arrived on the trade winds from Persia, India and China to trade for Zanzibar's famous spices. This mix of African and Arabian influences led to the establishment of the Swahili culture and language.

Reached by ferry or flight from Dar es Salaam, there is much to see and do on Zanzibar. In Stone Town, the main town, a labyrinth of narrow streets—mere passageways in some places—winds between aging buildings (a blend of Portuguese, East Indian, Persian and Omani Arab architecture). Among the sights are the sultan's palace, the old Arab fort, two cathedrals and many mosques. Cars, satellite dishes and mobile phones abound, but the clamor of modern life is halted abruptly by the Muslim call to prayer. When you're strolling about, be sure to watch the dhows (sailboats) in the harbor and perhaps organize a sunset sail on one.

Zanzibar smells exotic, too, and spices have been an important commodity on trade routes that date back to the 16th century. In the interior, you'll find jackfruit trees with their huge green fruit, coconut palm trees, and plantations of cloves, nutmeg and cinnamon among many other fragrant spices. You can dazzle the senses on a local excursion from Stone Town known as the Spice Tour.

No visit to Zanzibar is complete without relaxing on the beaches, which are characterized by white sand backed by coconut palms and the warm turquoise Indian Ocean. Holiday resorts found around the island vary from simple thatched bungalows to super-luxurious exclusive retreats. In between, the local people live a peaceful existence making a living from fishing from dhows and farming seaweed.

Zanzibar is 45 mi/70 km north of Dar es Salaam.

Overview

Introduction