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Albania, one of Europe's most remote countries, has opened its doors for business and travelers. Although it still looks the part of a poor nation—potholed roads, fields tilled by hand, utilities that regularly fail, and the horse and cart a common mode of transportation—Albania is moving ahead. There is steady international investment in the major cities, and it is safe for travel to Tirana and to the outskirts (if traveling with an escorted tour).
Albania's greatest asset is its natural beauty. The scenery along the southern coast is breathtaking, as are the jagged mountains in the interior. Although a trip to Albania isn't for everyone (even under the best conditions), adventurous travelers will find it an exciting and rewarding destination.
This ancient land, formerly called Illyria, was mentioned in histories dating from the fourth century BC. (More than 90% of Albania's population is Shqiptare—descended from the ancient Illyrians.) The region was conquered by the Romans in 167 BC and again by the Ottoman Turks, who controlled it for more than 400 years. The Turks were challenged in the 15th century by Albanian bey (feudal lord) Gjergj Kastrioti. Called Skanderbeg, he became the national hero of Albania, fighting against the Turks for 24 years. In a series of battles, he carved an Albanian nation from the Ottoman lands.
After his death, the region returned to Turkish rule, where it remained until 1912, when Albania achieved a short-lived independence before being swept into World War I. In 1920, Albania once again gained its independence, which it maintained for the next 18 years before Italy invaded on the eve of World War II. When Italy surrendered to the Allies in 1943, Albania was subsequently taken over by Nazi Germany. Enver Hoxha and his communist partisans began a guerrilla war against the Nazis and controlled most of Albania by 1944. That same year, the communists proclaimed Albania a republic and elected Hoxha its premier.
Over the next three decades, Albania allied itself with other communist countries (Yugoslavia, China, the U.S.S.R.) before eventually turning its back on them (and the rest of the world) in 1978. The country spent the next 10 years in complete isolation.
After Hoxha's death in 1985 and the fall of communism in Eastern Europe four years later, Albania moved slowly toward multiparty elections. After a period of instability, plagued with ineffective government and a financially devastating pyramid scheme, life has settled. Satellite TV, mobile phones and upscale hotels converge with sheep on the highway, horse-and-cart transportation and fields tilled by hand. Some problems still exist: Car use has escalated, but road infrastructure is poor, and public utilities frequently fail for part of the day. Many cities and towns are still marred by unattractive communist-style buildings. The government is now acting to control shoddy development, especially in Tirana, and build more eye-pleasing structures as well as to encourage more foreign investment in the country.
Albania's foremost attractions are forest and mountain scenery, undeveloped beaches, lakes, friendly people, and Illyrian, Greek and Roman ruins. Almost every field has a military bunker, and they are found in every corner of the country.
Albania will appeal to travelers who want to escape the crowds, see a vanishing way of life (ancient rural and the aftermath of communism) and see a part of Europe where time seems to have stood still for decades. Don't go if you are simply looking for a luxurious beach vacation on the Adriatic—Greece has similar sites and many more amenities. If you go to Albania, be prepared for erratic schedules and less-than-perfect accommodations, service and shopping.
During Communist rule, many Albanians secretly (and illegally) learned Italian by turning their rooftop antennas to pick up Italian television.
In 1990, there were only 6,000 telephones in the entire country—one telephone for every 585 inhabitants. Today mobile-phone coverage is available in all parts of the country.
In the Communist era, there were only around 600 cars in Albania, but now the country experiences frequent traffic jams in its larger cities. The most common car is the Mercedes.
An Albanian's word, called besa, is his bond. Traditional law holds that a man who breaks his besa must be executed by his peers, and his house pulled down and the stones scattered. Even today, Albanians are reluctant to promise anything, no matter how small, unless they are sure they can keep their promise. (In return, don't make any promises you don't intend to keep.)
Although born in Macedonia, Mother Teresa was an ethnic Albanian.
The annual Tirana Film Festival, initiated in 2003, unites film makers from all over the world and provides awards for distinguished entries.
Under Enver Hoxha and his "perfectly just" society, there were no lawyers in Albania.
At one point in its history, Albania outlawed all religion. Most of the country's mosques and churches were turned into gymnasiums, cinemas and fast-food restaurants. Since the fall of totalitarianism, most churches and mosques have reopened.
Traditionally, Albania is 60% Muslim, 20% Roman Catholic, 20% Orthodox—and mostly nonpracticing. The high Muslim percentage is attributed to the times when non-Muslims had to pay exorbitant taxes. Many converted for fiscal reasons.
Relics of Illyrian tribes can be found at Kuc i Zi, Barc, Pazhok and elsewhere, and ruins of Illyrian cities can be seen at Dimal, Amantia and Selca e Poshtme. The Byzantine influence is more evident in the south, and remains of the Roman Empire can be found primarily in the north.
As the country's infrastructure is being modernized, daily power outages are quite common everywhere.
The Albanian Riviera is simply spectacular, and it's only about 80 mi/130 km south of Tirana. A two-lane road winds along the coast, past ancient villages, mountainous coastline and perfect blue water. A plus is that the road from Dhermi to Llogara Pass is now paved. If you are going to Albania, you shouldn't miss this drive.
Traveling from the north, the road follows the coastline just south of Vlore and then turns inland to make its way up to Llogara Pass—one of the best stretches of road in the country. The valley leading to the pass is beautiful, filled with small fields and farmhouses and low, terraced hills. Behind the hills are sheer mountain faces, which give the scattered farmhouses a heroic quality. At the foot of the mountain, a dry channel of a river runs like a gray scar through the pale green fields. As you drive along, you'll pass women walking down the road, spinning yarn from the bales of wool on their backs, or men with stacks of goatskins strapped to their bicycles. Higher up, the road winds through the pine forests of a national park that are filled with ferns and moss (and a light mist). Near the top is Llogara Village, which has a restaurant and rents comfortable wooden bungalows that were shipped in from Denmark. At the top of the pass, the light turns pale yellow. The scenery breaks from the clouded, damp alpine forest into dry, sparse and yellow-stone cliffs, which drop 3,700 ft/1,100 m into the pure blue water below. From the pass you can see the narrow road winding its way slowly down to the sea—a trip that takes about 20 minutes.
From there, the road threads past olive and orange orchards, goatherds, hilltop villages and breathtaking coastline. The fields and slopes near the coast are fragrant with salt water, wild thyme and rosemary. Dhermi has a pretty, pebbled beach and a small hotel, as well as the 12th-century Church of Santo Stefano and the 14th-century Church of Santo Mitri. Himara is a town on the coast that has a 19th-century Church of All Saints, a wide beach, a number of small hotels and good seafood restaurants. Borsh has olive groves, citrus orchards and a wide beachfront. The road also winds past the country's former top-secret submarine base (now used by fisherfolk). It is guarded by a 19th-century fortress built by Ali Pasha. From there, it's a short drive to Saranda.
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