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Overview

Introduction

Sun-drenched beaches of the Algarve, exclusive golf resorts, medieval hilltop towns, colorful fishing villages, a cosmopolitan capital, the vine-filled valley of the Douro, wild remote mountains—Portugal has it all. But Europe's oldest country, which has had its eyes melancholically set on the sea and on a lost and glorious past, has turned its head toward Europe and is undergoing a profound modernization. Still, things move a bit more slowly in Portugal, devagar as residents say, and some 16 million tourists seem to like the pace.

The social contrasts are still bigger there than in any other country in western Europe. But Europe's former "poor house" is on its way to becoming a nice mansion with a sea view. The young Portuguese still listen to fado, and the students of Coimbra still wear their traditional outfits, but they party in stylish cafes and bars.

There is no better way to experience Portugal than to sit down in a street cafe with a bica (espresso) or a glass of port as you watch the world go by. And when you leave Portugal, you will probably feel saudades (a feeling of longing for something that is gone but might return). But unlike King Sebastian, you can always return.

Geography

Portugal is a long, narrow country on the Iberian Peninsula, at the southwestern edge of Europe. Mountains run through the central, northern and eastern parts of the country, and to the west the Atlantic Ocean meets an extensive seacoast, creating many excellent harbors. In the southernmost province of the Algarve, beaches, marshes and cliffs mark the coast.

Two island groups in the Atlantic, the Azores and Madeira, are also part of Portugal. Both are green and fairly remote.

History

Outsiders have flocked to Portugal's shores before—as invaders. The region—called Lusitania by the Romans—was occupied by Phoenicians, Celts, Romans, Germanic tribes and Arabs, among others. The foundation of the nation-state we know today as Portugal was laid in 1139 when Afonso Henriques, the country's first king, declared independence from Leon and Castile.

As a result of naval expansion, from 1400 to 1600 Portugal was a major colonial power, developing territories in South America, Africa, India and Asia. That 200-year era has come to be known as Portugal's Golden Age. (Portugal only relinquished the last of those colonies in 1975.)

The Golden Age ended in a series of costly wars with Spain. The Portuguese monarchy gradually lost the respect of its citizens, who ousted the last king in 1910. After two decades of turmoil, Dr. Antonio de Oliveira Salazar emerged as Portugal's unquestioned leader. Salazar, who ruled as prime minister for more than 35 years, isolated Portugal from the rest of Europe and clung to power through a brutal police force that censored virtually anyone who opposed him.

Salazar suffered a stroke in 1968 and died two years later. His regime died shortly thereafter, and by 1976 Portugal had become a true democracy. It joined the European Union in 1986, which led to widespread development and investment in infrastructure. However, the financial crises precipitated by the banks resulted in the country having to apply to the International Monetary Fund and the European Union for bail-out loans to help stabilize its economy.

Portuguese culture today contains remnants of the conquering and conquered cultures, but the modern Portuguese way of life is not entirely constrained by the past, as evidenced by the development of tourism, particularly in the Algarve.

Snapshot

Portugal's main attractions include old-world European culture, beaches, resorts, deep-sea fishing, archaeology, history, scenery, festivals, churches, monasteries, castles and friendly people.

Those who like beaches, pretty scenery, good food and a wide variety of active nightlife (in the main cities and resorts) will enjoy Portugal.

Potpourri

Lisbon and Coimbra are rivals when it comes to fado, a traditional, mournful style of music whose lyrics express longing and sorrow. Both cities claim to have preserved the purest form of the music. In either city, however, you can hear the black-clad singers, accompanied by guitar and viola.

Portugal's King Sebastian, who ruled in the 16th century, is one of the most charismatic figures in the country's history. A sickly, unstable young man—or a visionary dreamer, depending on your point of view—he launched a crusade against the Islamic infidels in 1578. At the Battle of the Three Kings in Morocco, he was killed and his army of 18,000 completely routed. Well into the 19th century, many clung to the belief that Sebastian had only been captured and would someday return to claim the throne.

Legend says that the Algarve's numerous almond trees, whose white petals cover the ground during January and February, were planted by a Muslim king whose Scandinavian wife missed the snow of her homeland.

Algarve gets its name from the Arabic term al-Gharb (the West). The province once marked the westernmost point of Muslim expansion in the Middle Ages.

Portuguese writer Jose Saramago won the Nobel Prize for literature in 1998.

Half the hotel beds in the country are in the Algarve.

Porto or Oporto? The two spellings for the northern Portuguese city stem from a misunderstanding. Foreign visitors to Porto often heard the locals say, "O porto," meaning "to the port," and they took it to be the name of the city. The new version became the accepted name in most languages (other than Portuguese, that is).