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Overview

Introduction

Although it used to be one of the region's most important cities and capital of the once mighty Songhai Empire, today's Gao, located 575 mi/925 km northeast of Bamako, attracts few tourists. The town was destroyed by Moroccan invaders in 1591 and, despite its prime location on the Niger River, has never recovered. You'll get a good idea of what's to come at the airport—a metal building surrounded by mushy tarmac and blast-furnace heat. Don't plan more than one night there, although if you're arriving overland from the desert or by boat from upriver, it'll look like heaven. Sights include the rather uninspiring Musee du Sahel (a museum featuring art, tools and household items), markets (leather work, desert sandals, knives and swords) and the tomb of Askia Muhammad (a 500-year-old adobe "pyramid" with a view of the river and town). Another highlight is an early-morning pirogue ride to the big red sand dune just outside of town.

Overview

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This town in a hilly tree-dotted savanna area in the south is the center of the Lobi people. Considered the most isolated group in the country, the Lobi are known for their wood carving and eerie multistory mud fortresses, similar to the dwellings of the Sombas of Benin. The Lobi cultural museum has exhibits that help to explain these mysterious, reclusive people, who have kept their traditions alive perhaps better than any other ethnic group in West Africa. (The museum was built through the efforts of Madeleine Pere, who has lived in Gaoua for decades and is the only Westerner to have ever completed the secretive and arduous Lobi initiation rituals.) Be sure to get permission before taking photographs, especially in the countryside. Don't miss the town's bustling Sunday market.

Loropeni (30 mi/50 km west of Gaoua) has a two-story-high stone ruin of unknown origin. It's similar, though less impressive, than the famous ruins of the Great Zimbabwe National Monument. 130 mi/210 km southeast of Bobo-Dioulasso.

Overview

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Mormugao is the main port of the Indian state of Goa, located on the tip of a peninsula in the Indian Ocean. Panjim, which is located 25 mi/40 km from the port, is the capital of Goa and is a pleasant and friendly city. Vasco is a smaller town closer to the port that includes railway lines into other parts of Goa.

Location

The port entrance is a long walk from the dock, but from the entrance travelers can hire a taxi to drive them into the cities of Panjim and Vasco de Gama or to the beaches.

Overview

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N'gaoundere (pop.60,000) is the northernmost stop on the train from Yaounde. It's not worth trying to visit, but many people find themselves there at one point or another. It has a pleasant market and is the home of the lamido (sultan) of the Benoue people. Try to visit the palace of the lamido and its associated mosque. You might also consider hiking around Mt. N'gaoundere just outside of town. (N'gaoundere means "belly button of the world," and when you see Mt. N'gaoundere you'll understand why this town is so named.) 280 mi/450 km northeast of Yaounde.

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Sonargaon is the ancient capital of both Hindu and Muslim rulers. Remnants of those 13th- and 14th-century reigns are scattered throughout the area, though there are virtually no reminders in modern Sonargaon itself. Mograpara, just a few kilometers from Sonargaon, has the best collection of ancient buildings, including several important tombs. Just outside Mograpara is the 16th-century Goaldi Mosque (a folk-art museum) and Painam Nagar (a century-old ghost town, complete with decaying mansions and a Hindu temple). Sonargaon is an easy day trip from Dhaka, but you could also stop there on your way to Chittagong. 18 mi/25 km southeast of Dhaka.

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