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Overview

Introduction

At the end of the Dempster Highway is the town of Inuvik, the governmental center for the western Arctic. Be sure to see the town's igloo-shaped church and Chuk Territorial Park, which offers a view of the delta of the Mackenzie River. Restaurants in town serve dishes suitable to the far north: caribou, musk ox and arctic char.

Inuvik is the jumping-off point for adventure in the western Arctic: Planes provide transportation to many outlying destinations, including Aulavik National Park, Tuktut Nogait National Park and Ivvavik National Park. You can also take a plane or boat to visit the community of Aklavik, across the Mackenzie River Delta. Aklavik was the hub of the area until the 1950s, when it was feared that the town might collapse because of thawing permafrost. (Inuvik was built to replace it.) A small community remains there, and you can visit some log buildings harking back to the days of rugged trappers and hunters. Other destinations that can be reached from Inuvik include Sachs Harbour and Paulatuk, both of which give the traveler a real taste of traditional Inuit life. Inuvik is 650 mi/1,050 km northwest of Yellowknife.

Overview

Introduction

We think only the hardiest, most adventurous travelers should visit this national park. Located in the northwestern corner of the Yukon Territory, 590 mi/950 km north of Whitehorse, Ivvavik National Park was established to preserve the flora and fauna of the North Slope (the area that runs from the coastal mountains to the Beaufort Sea). Facilities are minimal. You'll have to fly in on one of the regional airlines—no roads lead to the park.

If you do go, look for grizzly bears, caribou, Arctic foxes, waterfowl and Dall sheep. Windswept Herschel Island, formerly a Russian whaling station and North West Mounted Police post, is just off the coast. It's thought that at least 9,000 years before the Europeans arrived, the Inuvialuit—the first peoples of the Americas—used it as a hunting camp.

Overview

Introduction

Narvik, Norway, an iron-ore port 610 mi/980 km northeast of Oslo, was the scene of fierce fighting in World War II, taken and retaken by both Germans and Allies until hardly a house was standing.

Today, Narvik has the War Museum (http://www.warmuseum.no), the Ofoten Museum that deals with the area's cultural history (http://www.ofoten.museum.no) and the Ofoten Railway, which runs through 26 mi/42 km of some of the most dramatic scenery in Norway to reach the border with Sweden. The fishing season around the islands is January-April. http://www.visitnarvik.com.

Overview

Introduction

The world's northernmost capital, Reykjavik (which means "smoky bay") sits on the southwest coast of Iceland. Surrounded by a ring of mountains and Faxafloi Bay, Reykjavik is immaculately clean, and visitors will find that it's easy to explore on foot.

The capital city is full of artists, writers, musicians and filmmakers, as well as the rugged fishermen who ply the North Atlantic Ocean and unload their catch on the city's docks. Reykjavik is the political and cultural epicenter of Iceland, home to the nation's parliament.

Reykjavik remains one of the world's top travel destinations, with the number of annual tourists far exceeding the country's total population. With unrivaled nightlife and pristine nature surrounding the city, there has never been a better time to visit Reykjavik.

The economic upheaval the nation faced in 2008 devalued the Icelandic krona, but it was most harmful to locals. Visitors will still find this to be among the more costly cities in Europe.

Must See or Do

Sights—The white church, Hallgrimskirkja; the Sun Voyager sculpture overlooking the bay.

Museums—The National Museum of Iceland for a thorough overview of the country's history and culture; Reykjavik Art Museum for its consistently excellent rotating exhibitions; Culture House for its centuries old manuscripts.

Memorable Meals—Innovative cuisine in a cozy setting at Grillmarkadurinn; seafood at Snaps.

Late Night—Lebowski or Microbar for a quiet pint.

Walks—The walk up Oskjuhlid Hill to Perlan, through a small forest and mossy fields; a hike at nearby Esja Mountain.

Especially for Kids—Slakki Petting Zoo; interactive exhibits and 23 life-size models at Whales of Iceland.

Potpourri

Iceland opened the first hydrogen fuel station in 2003, and that same year it began running hydrogen-powered buses in Reykjavik. It is the only country in the world using electricity and heating from renewable sources (mostly hydro power).

Two-thirds of Iceland's entire population resides in Reykjavik.

The city has a habit of banning interesting things: Beer was outlawed 1915-1989; TV wasn't allowed until 1985; even dogs were banned 1924-1984.

Location

Smaller cruise ships dock close to the town center, within walking distance of nearly all the city's attractions. Most ships, however, must dock at Skarfabakki Harbour, which is 2 mi/3 km from the town center. The small terminal at the cruise dock contains visitor information, car rental booths, and computer and internet access.

Skarfabakki offers free shuttle buses to transport visitors to the Reykjavik town center, which is about a 10-minute drive. Taxis are also available at the dock and in town.



Shore Excursions

Common excursions include a tour of the Golden Circle, the highlights of which are just outside Reykjavik; the Blue Lagoon and its famed spa; whale-watching tours; boats to puffin colonies; and tours of the city itself.

Overview

Introduction

Vik, Iceland, 120 mi/190 km southeast of Reykjavik, is near the Eldhraun lava fields and the beautiful sea-rock formations of Dyrholaey. You'll find fascinating needle rock formations and very active bird cliffs. (The campground and guest cabins at Vik are dramatically situated at the foot of one of the bird cliffs.) It's worthwhile to stop in town and stroll down to the sea and watch the brilliant white waves breaking over a black-sand beach of crushed volcanic lava. While in Vik, explore the small farms at Skogar. In addition to the farms, there is an open-air folk museum with exhibits on the traditions, history and mythology of the region. Nearby are the Myrdalsjokull and Eyarfjordurjokull glaciers.

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